How To Sew Stretchy Fabrics ?

Did you know? Your wardrobe mostly contains garments made from stretchy fabrics. Although these fabrics are so common, many sewers are extremely scared of trying anything with stretchy fabrics. For that reason, I wrote this post just for you. Sewing with stretchy fabrics is not intrinsically challenging. The secret is to master the proper technique for sewing it. Sewing with a stretchy fabric allows you to create a plethora of items, like cardigans, t-shirts, pyjamas, leggings, dresses that are soft and comfortable, nightgowns that fit snugly, underwear, and whatnot!

Regular sewing machines are as effective when sewing stretch materials, even though sergers are great for the job. Below, I have provided a very basic explanation of everything. Please read all the way through.

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Best Stretchy Fabrics

You might be thinking what type of stretchy fabrics you should try sewing on first. Let me help you out.

Your number one choice has to be Spandex (Elastane). You’ll love spandex because it’s like your clothing’s personal yoga instructor. It can stretch, bend, and snap back to shape like a pro. Whether you’re hitting the gym or just want comfy jeans, spandex is your go-to stretchy companion.

Ever heard of the brand Lycra? It’s like the VIP section of spandex. Lycra got that unbeatable elasticity and durability. When you wear something with Lycra, you’ll feel snug and secure, making it perfect for swimwear, sportswear, or anything that needs to stay in place.

Jersey fabric is like that favorite old t-shirt you can’t let go of – it’s comfy and stretches naturally. It’s perfect for everyday wear, so you can be yourself without feeling restricted. Think casual dresses and cozy t-shirts.

Ponte de Roma fabric is your secret weapon for looking sharp and feeling comfy. It’s a double-knit champ that combines stability and stretch. So, whether you’re wearing leggings or a classy dress, you’ll be ready for anything.

Modals are like the cool breeze of fabrics. It’s soft, breathable, and naturally stretchy. You’ll find it perfect for those lazy days when you want to feel relaxed. Modal makes great loungewear, underwear, and casual clothing because it’s all about comfort.

What Thread Works Best for Stretchy Fabrics?

Select all-purpose polyester thread when stitching stretch fabrics. It’s also the thread that’s most accessible. When sewing stretch fabric, replace cotton thread with polyester thread if you’re using cotton thread—cotton thread has absolutely no stretch. When working with stretch fabrics, the polyester thread will be more robust because it contains a small amount of stretchiness.

What Needle Works Best for Stretchy Fabrics?

Simple enough, a ballpoint needle is needed for sewing stretch fabrics. This type of needle is also known as a “stretch needle” or “jersey needle.” Stretchy fabrics can be easily torn apart with an ordinary needle or worst case, sharp needles. Therefore, if at all feasible, begin with a ballpoint needle. You may also use a universal sewing machine needle in a pinch. Although they lack the circular tip of ballpoint needles, universal needles are still not as sharp as sharp needles. After all, there’s a good reason why they’re sold as an all-purpose needle!

Additionally, ballpoint pins can be something you want to purchase if you are sewing with particularly delicate stretch fabric.

Steps To Sew Stretchy Fabrics

Sewing stretch fabric can be done in various ways, depending on your project and the equipment you have. Some common methods include using a stretch stitch, a zigzag stitch, a walking foot, or a serger/overlock machine. I’ll be discussing all of these steps in the following sections.

Method 1: Sewing Stretch Fabric using a Stretch Stitch

Sewing stretch fabric using a stretch stitch is a great option for maintaining flexibility and preventing seam breakage. Sew along with me as I break down the steps for you below:

Before you start, you need to gather all the materials. This includes the stretch fabric, a ballpoint or stretch needle, polyester thread, pins or clips, a ruler, fabric scissors, and your sewing machine with a stretch stitch setting.

First things first, give your stretch fabric a good pre-wash and dry to make sure it won’t shrink later. Then, iron it to get rid of any wrinkles. With your fabric prepped, carefully cut it according to the pattern or measurements.

Now, let’s get the sewing machine ready. Install the appropriate needle for stretch fabric and thread the machine with polyester thread. Set the machine to the stretch stitch, which is usually indicated by a lightning bolt symbol or a similar icon. You can adjust the stitch length to match the fabric, generally a bit longer than a regular straight stitch.

Before sewing, use pins or clips to secure the fabric pieces together, making sure everything is nicely aligned.

Time for the actual sewing. Position the fabric under the presser foot, ensuring you don’t stretch the fabric while sewing. Then, start sewing, guiding the fabric with both hands. The stretch stitch should automatically create a bit of give in the seams, which is perfect for stretch fabric. As with any sewing, backstitch a few stitches at the beginning and end of the seam to secure the thread.

Once you’re done sewing, trim any loose thread ends. If your project involves multiple pieces, continue sewing and aligning them as needed. For a polished finish, press the seam with a warm iron. This will help set the stretch stitches and keep them in place.

Method 2: Sewing Stretch Fabric using a Zigzag Stitch

First, get everything ready. You’ll need your stretch fabric, an appropriate needle (a ballpoint or stretch needle), some polyester thread that has a bit of stretch to it, and, of course, your trusty sewing machine that has a zigzag stitch option. Don’t forget fabric scissors, pins or clips, and a ruler or measuring tape.

Now, before you dive into sewing, it’s essential to prep your fabric. Give it a good pre-wash and dry to make sure it won’t shrink later on. After that, a quick ironing session to get rid of any wrinkles or creases.

Carefully cut your fabric according to the pattern or measurements you’re working with. Clean cuts are important.

Time to set up your sewing machine. Switch to the appropriate needle for stretch fabric, load it up with some polyester thread, and make sure you’ve got the zigzag stitch selected. Adjust the stitch length and width to match your fabric’s thickness and stretch level. Shorter and wider for high stretch, longer and narrower for low stretch.

Before sewing, secure the fabric pieces together using pins or clips. This is important to keep everything in place and aligned.

Now, for the actual sewing, start by positioning the fabric under the presser foot. It’s crucial not to stretch the fabric while sewing. Guide it gently with your both hands – one in front and one behind the presser foot. You want to make sure your zigzag stitches are nice and close to the fabric’s edge.

As always, backstitch a few stitches at the beginning and end of my seam. This secures the thread in place.

After you’re done sewing, trim any loose thread ends. To give the work a polished look, press the seam with a warm iron. But, be extra careful not to stretch the fabric while doing this.

Method 3: Sewing Stretch Fabric using a Walking Foot

Sewing stretch fabric using a walking foot is an excellent method to prevent stretching and distortion.

Before you start, gather all the necessary materials: the stretch fabric, a ballpoint or stretch needle, polyester thread, pins or clips, a ruler, fabric scissors, and your sewing machine equipped with a walking foot.

Similar to the above methods, give your stretch fabric a good pre-wash and dry it. Then, iron it to remove any wrinkles. Carefully cut your fabric, being precise.

Install the appropriate needle for stretch fabric, thread the machine with polyester thread, and attach the walking foot. The walking foot is essential for even fabric feeding, which prevents stretching. Set the machine to a regular straight stitch with an average length.

I will again insist you use pins or clips to secure the fabric pieces together before sewing, making sure everything is well aligned.

Time to position the fabric under the presser foot, ensuring you don’t stretch the fabric while sewing. The walking foot will help feed the fabric evenly. Start sewing, guiding the fabric with both hands. The walking foot will ensure that the layers of fabric are fed through the machine at the same rate, preventing any stretching.

Once you’re done sewing, trim any loose thread ends and give a good press with a warm iron, being careful not to stretch the fabric.

Method 4: Sewing Stretch Fabric using a Serger/Overlock Machine

Sewing stretch fabric using a serger is a great way to create professional-looking and durable seams.

First of all, gather all the materials you’ll need: your stretch fabric, polyester thread suitable for stretch fabrics, ballpoint or stretch needles, fabric scissors, pins or clips, a ruler, and of course, your serger.

Pre-wash your stretch fabric and dry it well. After that, iron it to ensure there are no wrinkles or creases. Carefully cut the fabric as per your requirements.

Now, it’s time to set up the serger. Thread each of the machine’s threads through their respective guides, making sure they are securely in place. Usually, a serger has four threads, but it’s okay to use three or four, depending on the desired finish. Set the stitch length, width, and tension according to the fabric and your project requirement.

Position the fabric under the serger’s presser foot, making sure not to stretch it while sewing. As you sew, the serger will trim the fabric’s edge and create a neat, overlocked seam in a single pass. Gently guide the fabric to keep it aligned with the seam allowance.

Once you’re done sewing, trim any loose thread ends, and the seams are already nicely finished, thanks to the serger.

While serged seams are generally tidy, you can still press them with a warm iron if you want a polished look. However, it’s essential to be cautious not to stretch the fabric while pressing.

Summary

Sewing with stretch fabrics is a popular subject, and for a good reason! It’s all about finding the right balance between technique and creativity. In this post, I’ve covered the essentials: the right thread, needles, stitches, and machine settings to make your sewing experience smoother. But remember, you will make mistakes, so don’t be discouraged by initial challenges.

Once you master handling stretch fabrics, you can create comfy activewear, stylish dresses, and even swimwear if you’re feeling adventurous. So, experiment with different types of stretch fabrics, and don’t forget to share your amazing creations with fellow sewing enthusiasts. Happy sewing, and may your stretch fabric projects always turn out beautifully!

Frequently Asked Questions

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