How to Sew Jeans in 13 Steps

Making your own jeans is arguably the most rewarding garment you will ever learn to make. Identifying your preferred style should be your first step. Next, look at jeans in general and make a list of different ideas for pockets and topstitching. In addition, there are numerous options for jeans sewing patterns.

Let’s quickly learn how to make jeans at home by following this simple DIY tutorial.

How to Sew Jeans: What is jeans or denim?

Jeans have been around for a long time. They were designed to be functional and long-lasting labor clothes. For this reason, they were created from denim, a strong and functional fabric. There are several convenient pockets on jeans. Additionally, it has a high stitch count, which strengthens the seams. In areas that are vulnerable to tearing, there are also reinforcements.
Light- to medium-weight denim fabric should be used for the majority of common denim apparel pieces. Jeans require thick thread and a powerful needle to be sewn because they are thick and inflexible.

Can all sewing machines sew jeans?

Most of the time, a standard sewing machine can be used to stitch jeans. A standard sewing machine will do if you are not attempting anything particularly difficult.

Light or medium-weight jeans can be sewn on most sewing machines. But it might take an industrial-strength sewing machine to sew together several layers of very heavy jeans. Read our detailed post on Sewing Machines for Denim to see the best machines to sew jeans.

Tips for sewing with jeans

Before actually going into the procedure of sewing jeans, below are some quick tips for sewing with jeans.

Preparation

• The first step would be to get a sturdy sewing machine that can handle sewing jeans smoothly and easily.

• Next, you’ll need 2 1/2 yards of stretch or non-stretch denim fabric that weighs 10 to 14 ounces. You can also opt for another type of denim fabric that suits your preference.

• Another requirement is a well-fitting, multisize jeans pattern.

• Your denim fabric can shrink or bleed. Therefore, it should be pre-washed in warm water and dried flat.

• To cut your denim fabric, use a sharp pair of shears or a sharp rotary cutter. Straight lines will be considerably easier to obtain in this manner.

• You will require a metal zipper; for pants with a lower waist, the length should be between 12 and 15 cm, and for pants with a higher waist, it should be a few centimeters longer.

• Light-weight denim can be cut in numerous layers, but only one layer at a time should be cut from heavy-weight denim.

• Use interfacing in places where a waistline or fly would be appropriate. Tricot fusible interfacing is a fantastic alternative that adds another layer of strength and defense while stretching and moving with your denim fabric.

• Have rivets and buttons for jeans on hand. Rivets are a decorative option for the pockets. Jeans buttons are strong metal buttons for your fly.

• For flawless topstitching when working with jeans, pressing is essential. Always use a high-temperature steam setting on your iron.

• Before you start sewing jeans, it is strongly advised to test each stitch you intend to use on a little scrap of denim fabric. Before beginning a major project, it is always preferable to test everything to see what your machine can handle.

Select the appropriate thread and needle

• To stitch jeans, pick sturdy, moderately heavy-weight thread. To create your piece, use a thread that has been wrapped in cotton. Although it has the appearance and feel of cotton, it is more durable and stretch-resistant. Use upholstery or topstitching thread to stitch across numerous layers.

• Pick sewing needles designed exclusively for jeans. Jeans needles have a wider eye, are longer, sharper, and can take thicker thread. An appropriate choice for sewing light denim is a 90/14 needle. Choose between 100/16 or 100/18 for denim that is thicker. Read our best needles for sewing machines article to know more

How to sew jeans

1. When topstitching, use the edge foot to sew a row 1/8 inch from the seam. This will ensure a flawless finish. Next, evenly space the second row of topstitching by 1/4 inch from the first using the topstitching foot. Topstitch the hem, waistbands, belt loops, side seams, and pockets.

2. Use orange topstitching thread to stitch double-topstitched seams on blue jeans. Use thick white or off-white thread to topstitch a pair of black jeans. Use black thread for the topstitching on colored jeans.

3. The pins should be placed on the reverse side, and the hem, crotch, and knee of the pants should match. Then, to ensure that the back inseam matches the front inseam, make many 1/4-inch clips along the allowance for the back inseam. Sew with the feed dogs’ inseams facing you. To fit the front, extend the back’s inseam. Pin the right side of the front to the right side of the back for a neat inseam finish.

4. The seams need to be serged together. Then, pull the inseam of the pants toward the front. Press a one-inch hem up while the pants are still unzipped.

5. Stretch out the pant legs to create a horseshoe-shaped crotch seam. The machine occasionally skips stitches where many layers of denim unite. Before sewing, flatten the denim layers using a hammer to prevent this.

6. Stabilize the crotch using a little piece of twill tape sewed into the seam on the lower side of the crotch curve. Sew the crotch seam with the right sides together. The seam should then be clipped slightly below the fly-front extension. After serging the seams together, sew a single row of topstitching right next to the seam with contrasting thread and press it toward the fly front.

7. Position the waistband, pockets, and zipper in place before pinning the side seams together with the right sides facing out. Cross-pin the seams where the contour waistband and yoke meet to keep them from moving while you sew the seam. After that, machine-bast the side seams and fit-check the jeans. The hips and waist of the pants should fit snugly.

8. Next, permanently stitch the side seams. Open the seam. Serge the untrimmed seam allowance after trimming one side of the seam allowance to 1/4 inch. Next, sew two rows of topstitching along the right side of the side seams.

9. The edges of the coin pocket and the front overlay pocket should have a serrated finish. Seam allowances for coin pockets are folded in. The top hem should then be folded down by 1/2 inch. Use a hammer to first press and then beat the hem flat. Last but not least, topstitch twice along the top of the pockets.

10. Use a sturdy yet airy cotton to make the front and back pockets. Pin the pocket front to the pocket back with the wrong sides together. Sew the edge of the front and the side pocket back together. Then, topstitch the coin pocket in place at the bottom and along each side, with the wrong side facing the front.

11. Fusible stay tape in straight grain should be applied to the pocket edge curve. To make the tape follow the curve, clip into the tape on one side. Align the facing so that it matches the curves of the pocket opening while the pant front is facing you. Sew all the way around the pocket’s curved top edge. To reduce bulk, trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch, clip into the seam allowances every 1/2 inch, and remove any minor divots on the inside curve.

12. The front pocket should be facing the inside of the jeans. Make sure there is no facing visible on the seamed edge by pressing the pocket’s curved top seam. Topstitch in a double row along the curving edge using a contrasting thread.

13. Finish the pocket bags cleanly with a French seam. With the wrong sides facing each other, sew them with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. After which, right-side out the pocket bags and sew them once more with a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Pin down the side seam while lining up the seam allowance, like the corners of pockets. Or use them to add decoration anywhere you choose. Use a nail to make a hole through all the layers of fabric before you put the rivet in. Work the rivet through the hole again from the incorrect side, and then position the rivet front on top. Put the rivet into position by using the rivet applicator that fits the top of the rivet.

Hemming

Jeans require a 1-inch hem allowance due to their 1/2-inch double-turn hems. Pin after turning the hem twice. To protect the fabric, use a scrap of denim. Hammer the hem’s seams, then press. Double-stitch the hemline evenly all the way around, using thread that matches the topstitching.

Belt carriers

1. The size of belt carriers can range from 3/8 to 1-1/2 inches. Cut a strip that is three times the finished width of your carrier and 30 inches long to make the belt carriers. Press the lengthwise strip into thirds, with the serged edge on the outside and the raw edge on the inside. Serge is on the long side.

2. Add a double row of topstitching to the strip. If your carriers are wide, sew numerous rows. The strip should be divided into 5-inch pieces. On the pattern, the belt-carrier places are indicated. The carriers’ upper edges should be tucked under and hammered flat. Machine-sew a bar tack using thread that is the same color as the topstitching. Sew the carrier lower than the waistline since it will hold the belt.

Button closures

1. Wrap the waistband end on both sides to create a buttonhole. Make a keyhole buttonhole and stitch it twice for further definition using a thread that matches the color of your topstitching and a brand-new denim needle. Close the seams of the fabric and use a buttonhole chisel to cut the buttonhole open.

2. A front cap and a back cap make up a jeans button. Through the waistline, prick the nail point from the incorrect side to the right. Next, place the button cap over the nail piece with the point and hammer it into place.

How to sew jeans: Summary

You may make a wonderful and unique pair of jeans with the help of this comprehensive guide to sewing jeans. Jeans are such a timeless item to have in your closet.

But most of the time, sewing and maneuvering jeans is a difficult task. It takes a lot of practice and effort to sew jeans. You won’t be able to see how brilliant this piece of art is until you have mastered it.

Next time you undertake a project involving jeans, put this tutorial into action and report back to us on how it goes.

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Happy Stitching.

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