How To Sew a Collar?

One day, as I was flipping through fashion magazines, I came across a photo of a model wearing a shirt with the most stylish collar I had ever seen. Inspired by the idea, I decided to try my hand at sewing a shirt with a special collar.

Eager to get started, I began searching online for a good collar sewing pattern. After exploring a few websites, I stumbled upon one that had a collection of diverse and trendy patterns. It didn’t take long for me to find the perfect one that matched the style I envisioned.

All in all, after successfully sewing my collar pattern to my favorite shirt, I couldn’t resist the urge to share my experience with my fellow readers. It struck me that there might be others out there eager to embark on the collar sewing journey but facing some challenges. But hey, fear not—I’m here to guide you through the process. Let’s dive in and get started on creating your own stylish and personalized collar!

Different Collar Styles

Before we start stitching up those fabulous collars, let’s talk about why knowing different collar styles is essential. The simple reason ought to be why settle for just one look when you can have a bunch. Collar styles are like the special ingredients that turn a regular garment into a style sensation.

Overall, when it comes to sewing a collar, choosing the right style can make a significant difference in the overall look of your garment. For example, you’ve got the classic point collar and the cool mandarin collar, each bringing its own flavor. So, friends, let’s explore some popular collar styles and how you can sew them.

Point Collar

Firstly, we have the popular point collars. A classic choice for shirts, the point collar has a sharp, pointed edge at the tips. To sew this collar, you’ll need to attach it to a stand that frames the neck. But keep in mind to reinforce the points.

Mandarin Collar

If you’re going for a collar without the traditional fold, the Mandarin collar is an outstanding option. This style stands up straight, framing the neck without any lapels. Sewing a Mandarin collar involves careful stitching along the neckline.

Peter Pan Collar

This sweet and rounded collar is often seen on dresses and children’s clothing. To sew a Peter Pan collar, you’ll shape a circular or oval piece of fabric and attach it to the neckline. If sewed perfectly, you can achieve that charming, vintage-inspired look.

Shawl Collar

For a touch of elegance, consider the shawl collar commonly found on blazers and evening wear. This collar extends smoothly from the lapel, creating a graceful drape. When sewing a shawl collar, focus on seamless integration with the garment, paying attention to curves and transitions.

Convertible Collar

The convertible collar can be worn open or closed. This style is often seen on casual shirts and jackets. When sewing a convertible collar, ensure that it lays flat when open and aligns neatly when closed. Pay attention to the interfacing to maintain its structure.

Spread Collar

Ideal for dress shirts and formal attire, the spread collar features points that face outward, creating a wider angle. Sewing a spread collar involves careful stitching to maintain symmetry and ensure the collar lies flat against the garment.

Stand Collar

A stand collar stands upright around the neck without any lapels. This modern look is often seen in casual and contemporary clothing. When sewing a stand collar, focus on achieving a crisp edge, as it plays a prominent role in the garment’s overall aesthetic.

Collar Interfacing Options

Interfacing Option	Description	Application	Tips for Use
Woven Interfacing	Provides stability without compromising flexibility	Suitable for various collar styles	Cut on the bias for curves; follow grain for straight edges
Fusible Interfacing	Time-saving with adhesive for easy iron-on application	Ideal for collars with simple shapes	Follow manufacturer’s instructions for temperature and pressure
Knit Interfacing	Designed for stretchy or knit fabrics; offers support without restricting movement	Best for collars on stretch fabrics	Stretch the fabric slightly as you sew
Non-Woven Interfacing	Budget-friendly option suitable for light-weight fabrics	Good for garments with minimal wear and tear	Not as durable as woven options; best for lighter use
Horsehair Braid	Adds structure and subtle stiffness; often used in formal garments	Ideal for more formal collar styles	Sew into the seam allowance for support
Organza Interfacing	Sheer and light-weight; adds stability without being heavy	Suitable for collars requiring a delicate touch	Be mindful of transparency; choose a color that complements your fabric
Canvas Interfacing	Heavy-weight option for substantial structure; suitable for coats and jackets	Best for collars on outerwear	Get a heavy-duty sewing machine that can handle the thickness; consider grading seams to reduce bulk

Steps To Sew a Collar

It’s time to learn the basic steps of sewing the perfect collar.

Gather Materials

The first step with any sewing project is to collect the essential materials. I have listed below what you’ll need:

• Pattern: Choose a collar pattern that suits your garment. I am using these cute sets of Detachable Collar Pattern for my project.
• Fabric: Select a fabric that compliments your garment. Pre-wash and iron it.
• Interfacing: Depending on the pattern, you might need interfacing for stability.
• Thread: Match the color of the fabric or choose a contrasting color for a decorative touch.
• Sewing Machine
• Scissors
• Pins
• Iron
• Ruler

Step 1: Prepare the Pattern

Carefully cut along the outlined pattern markings, using sharp scissors. Fold your fabric in half, aligning selvages if applicable. This fold will typically match the center back of your collar pattern.

Thereafter, lay the pattern pieces on the folded fabric, aligning the center back of the pattern with the fold of the fabric. Pin the pattern. Cut the fabric along the edges of the pinned pattern.

Step 2: Prepare Fabric

Identify the grain of the fabric by following the direction of the threads. Then align the fabric grain with the grainline marked on your pattern pieces. This ensures the collar hangs correctly when attached to the garment. Place the pattern pieces onto the fabric and carefully cut the fabric along the edges of the pattern pieces.

Step 3: Interface (if needed)

Select an interfacing that suits your fabric and the desired level of structure for your collar. Interfacing comes in various weights and types, such as fusible or sew-in. Using the same pattern pieces you used for the fabric, cut the interfacing material. Also, remember to mark the wrong side if your interfacing has a distinct right and wrong side.

Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the corresponding fabric pieces. This typically involves using an iron to fuse the interfacing to the fabric. Once fused, allow the fabric and interfacing to cool slightly before moving. Then press the interfaced fabric pieces with a hot iron to set the bond.

Step 4: Sewing

Set up your sewing machine and choose the stitch type recommended by your pattern or use a standard straight stitch for most collar seams. Then, place the fabric collar pieces right sides together and pin them together.

The next step is to sew along the edges of the collar pieces, maintaining the seam allowance specified in your pattern. This is usually around 5/8 inch (1.5 cm), but check your pattern for accuracy.

If your collar has curves, carefully clip into the seam allowance without cutting into the stitching. Trim excess seam allowance, especially around corners and curves.

Then gently turn the collar right side out. Use a blunt tool like the rounded end of a pen to carefully push out corners for a clean shape.

Finally, press the collar flat with an iron to set the seams. If you applied interfacing, repeat the sewing process for the interfaced fabric pieces.

Step 5: Attach to Garment

First of all, use fabric markers to mark the exact placement of the collar on your garment. Secondly, with the garment right side out, pin the collar to the neckline, aligning the marked points.

Verify that the collar is symmetrically positioned on the garment. Then measure from the center front or back to each collar point to ensure even placement.

To further secure the collar before permanent stitching, consider basting it in place with a long stitch. This temporary stitching helps prevent any shifting during the final attachment.

Using the selected stitch type and seam allowance, sew the collar to the garment. Start at one end and stitch around the neckline, finishing at the other end.

Finally, press the collar seam with an iron to set it and press the seam allowances toward the garment or as directed by your pattern.

Step 6: Finish Edges

Consider the type of fabric you’re working with to determine the most suitable edge finishing method. Different fabrics may require specific techniques.

• If you have access to a serger, use it to finish the raw edges of the collar. Serge along the seam allowance, encasing the raw edges in a secure stitch. Trim any excess fabric close to the serged edge.

• If a serger is not available, use a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine. Set your machine to a medium-width zigzag and sew along the raw edges. Pinking shears have serrated blades that create a zigzag edge when cutting. Use pinking shears to trim the raw edges of the collar. This method is suitable for light-weight fabrics.

• You may also apply bias tape along the raw edges for further enhancement. Stitch the bias tape in place, enclosing the raw edges.

• If your collar is lined, turn the collar right side out and stitch close to the edge to secure the lining and outer fabric together. This creates a clean finish without additional binding.

• If your collar is not lined, you can opt for a simple hem. Fold the raw edge under and stitch close to the fold. This method works well for light-weight fabrics.

Step 7: Optional Embellishments

Common embellishments for collars include topstitching, embroidery, buttons, or other decorative elements:

• You can enhance the collar’s appearance with topstitching along the edges or seams.

• You can also add personalized details through embroidery. But make sure to plan and sketch your design on the collar before stitching.

• If your collar design allows, consider adding buttons and buttonholes by keeping an eye on proper spacing and alignment.

• Additionally, you can cut small shapes from a contrasting fabric and applique them onto the collar. Also, secure the applique with a tight satin or zigzag stitch.

• Moreover, you may attach lace along the edges of the collar for a vintage touch.

• You can also introduce tucks or pleats to the collar for added texture and visual interest.

• For a more glamorous look, consider hand-sewing beads or sequins onto the collar. But plan the placement beforehand.

• Finally, you may attach a ribbon or fabric bow to the collar for charmness. However, ensure secure stitching to prevent the bow from coming undone.

To master the art of sewing a collar, check out this instructional video:

Collar Variations for Garment Types

Different types of collar variations play a crucial role in defining the style and overall appearance of different garment types, such as shirts, dresses, and jackets. Here’s a brief overview:

1. Shirt Collar Variations

Shirt collars vary in style, from the classic point and spread to the trendy mandarin and band. Each design adds character, influencing a garment’s formality and complementing diverse fashion preferences.

• Point Collar: The most common type with pointed ends, suitable for formal and casual shirts.

• Button-Down Collar: Points are fastened with buttons, creating a preppy look.

• Spread Collar: Wider distance between points, offering a modern and stylish appearance.

• Mandarin Collar: Short, unfolded stand-up collar, often seen in casual or ethnic shirts.

2. Dress Collar Variations

Dress collars offer style diversity. Peter Pan collars evoke charm, halter collars exude allure, and off-the-shoulder designs showcase elegance. Each variation adds a unique touch, catering to diverse fashion preferences.

• Peter Pan Collar: Rounded and flat collar, commonly used in dresses for a youthful and feminine look.

• Halter Collar: Wraps around the neck, leaving shoulders and back exposed, ideal for summer dresses.

• Off-the-Shoulder: No distinct collar but the neckline rests below the shoulders, adding a touch of glamor.

3. Jacket Collar Variations

Jacket collars vary, from the classic notch and peak lapels to the contemporary shawl and mandarin styles. Each variation enhances the jacket’s character, influencing the overall aesthetic and formality.

• Shawl Collar: Rounded, continuous collar without points, often found in formal evening wear.

• Stand Collar: Short and upright, common in modern jacket designs.

• Notched Lapel: Standard for blazers and jackets, featuring a V-shaped indentation.

Summary

Sewing a collar might sound like a bit of a fancy sewing task, but trust me, it’s not as complicated as it may seem. When my shirt was finally completed with the attached collar, I proudly wore it, and the compliments I received made the effort worthwhile.

First, decide on the style of collar you want. You can go for a classic flat collar or something more fancy like a Peter Pan collar. Once you’ve chosen, cut out the collar pieces according to your pattern.

Place the collar pieces right sides together with the neckline of your garment and pin them in place. Sew carefully, following the seam allowance in your pattern. After stitching, clip the curved areas to help the collar lay flat. Then, turn the collar right side out and give it a good press with an iron to make it crisp and neat. Voila! You’ve just sewn a collar like a pro.

Collars can add a stylish touch to your shirts, dresses, or jackets. Who would have thought that a simple decision to sew a shirt collar could lead to such a satisfying and stylish outcome? So, get sewing and soon you’ll be sewing collars like it’s a walk in the park. Happy sewing and keep rocking those collars!

Frequently Asked Questions

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