sewing curtains

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Sewing Curtains

When you move into a new home, your first instinct is to put your personal stamp on it. There are lots of ways to personalize a house or apartment. However, one of the least expensive ways to tell the world that this is your personal space is to create your own window treatments. Your windows set the town for the whole room. Whether your style tends to be classic, traditional, neo-modern, eclectic or any of the other styles out there today, making your own curtains, valances and drapes guarantees that you have exactly what you want. When you decide to sew your own curtains, the first thing you need to do is identify the hardware on which you want your curtains to hang. This may seem like a strange place to start, but many of today’s decorative curtain rods are very large.

Identifying the hardware
Identifying the hardware

When you choose oversized rods, the height or circumference will have a definite affect on your fabric measurements. When measuring the length of your curtains, an oversized rod will require extra fabric.

Regardless of your style preference, the basic technique for sewing curtains is the same.

  • Measure the length and width of your window.
  • Calculate your fabric requirements by keeping the following pointers in mind:
    • Measure the length your window from the point you want to mount the rod to the point at which you want the bottom hem to stop.
    • Add at least two and a half inches for the bottom hem.
    • Add two times plus 1 ½ inch to the top to accommodate the width or circumference of your rod.
    • If you want you curtain to have a ‘self’ ruffle on top, add another two inches to the top measurement.
    • Measure the width of your window from the outer edges of the frame
    • Multiply the window width by 2.5.

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    Time to Go Shopping

    You are now ready to go to the fabric store. Take you calculator with you to make sure you purchase enough fabric, but not too much. Depending upon the vendor and your final selection, the fabric you choose for your curtains could vary in width from 45 to 60 or 80 inches.

    If your windows are exposed to lots of sunlight – especially if they face south, make sure you choose a fabric that is not prone to fading. All fabrics fade from constant exposure to sunlight after a while, but some fade quicker than others.

    Certain synthetic fibers tend to fade more quickly than others however some seem to hold their color longer than natural fibers. If you are unsure about how a certain type of fabric will stand up to constant exposure to sunlight, consult the staff at your local fabric center.

    The next thing you may want to invest in is trim. Before ruling it out altogether, take a few minutes to stroll through the trims section of the fabric store.

    There’s a good chance that something may just jump out at you, screaming that it would be ideal with that great fabric you have in your shopping cart and the stunning curtain rod you have waiting at home.

    Decorative trim can be added to the top and bottom hems of your curtains or you could use a bit of trim to adorn tiebacks if you decide that your curtain design and windows would benefit from them.

    Ready to Sew

    Double check your measurements before you cut the fabric. Once you’re certain the measurements are accurate, cut your fabric and rim accordingly.

    If your fabric frays easily, use some fray check or stay stitch the old fashioned way by sewing a simple straight or zigzag stitch first on all the cut edges before you begin. Taking the time for this step helps make sure the fabric is stable while you are working on your curtains.

    Generally, your side seams will be first. If you determine that you want your curtains to have a trim at the top or bottom, attach it at the innermost seam lines before sewing your side seams.

    In many cases, your curtain side seams are the selvedges. Whether the selvedge is the side seam or not, fold the edge over twice to give the seam a finished, professional look.

    While a standard 5/8” seam is acceptable, the ideal seam allowance for curtain side seams is ¾ to 1 inch. Press the side seams before moving on to the next step.

    Tip: Press all of your seams before starting to sew. It guarantees straight seams and makes your work go much faster.
    Next, sew your bottom hem.

    For Straight Curtains:

    Straight Curtains
    Straight Curtains

    Start by folding the entire top hem allowance, tuck the raw edge under and stitch. If you do not want a self ruffle at the top of your curtain it is finished and ready to be hung.

    If, however, a self top ruffle is in order, take a few moments to measure and pin the top of your rod pocket before sewing. Remember to leave enough space for the rod to slide smoothly through the pocket, but not too much.

    Sewing Curtains for Doors

    Curtains for Doors
    Curtains for Doors


    One of the most annoying things we can think of is to open or close a door while being forced to hold the curtain to keep it from getting trapped when the door is closed.

    The best way to handle that is to attach a rod to the bottom of the door window in order for the curtain to stay securely in place. Making a curtain of this type is as simple as following the guidelines for making a straight curtain and narrowing the bottom hem allowance to accommodate the lower rod.

    This process is especially useful for inset windows, French doors and casement windows that swing open from the sides.

    Ring, Tab or Grommet Curtains

    Drapery rings with clips attached
    Drapery rings with clips attached

    One trip down the curtain aisle of any store will reveal that traditional pinch pleated drapes are passé. More and more frequently, we are noticing that curtains with rings, tabs or grommets have replaced the traditional drapes and traverse rods that adorned our mothers living and dining rooms.

    The new, modern window treatments may not appear to be as formal as Grandmother’s traditional pinch pleated drapes, but that is a matter of personal opinion. When made from silk, brocade or another formal type fabric, grommet curtains and drapes can give a room an extremely rich flair.

    When making curtains or drapes with rings, tabs or grommets, allow two inch hems at the top and bottom. The rule for your curtain’s width measurement does not change. Reinforce the top hem with fusible interfacing before sewing.

    For ring top curtains or drapes: Sew the curtain as instructed above and attach plastic or metal rings to the top edge at six to eight inch intervals by hand. Some rings are designed to be attached through buttonholes.

    The last time I made ring top curtains, however, was for my granddaughter’s brand new apartment. I found drapery rings with clips attached. This made the job so much easier. No sewing by hand. No making a lot of button holes.

    Once the curtains were finished, we just sat down with rulers and packages of clips. The project was finished in no time at all.

    For Sewing Grommet Curtains or rapes:

    Grommet curtains or drapes
    Grommet curtains or drapes

    Follow the instructions described above to assemble your curtain or drape. After pressing, attach grommets at six to eight inch intervals according to the directions in your grommet tool kit.

    For Sewing Tabbed Curtains or Drapes

    Tabbed curtains
    Tabbed curtains

    Do not sew anything before fusing an inch of interfacing to the wrong side of the top edge. The tabs are made by cutting one four to five inch strip. The length, of course, depends upon the width of your curtain and the circumference of your rod.

    Wider curtains require more tabs. Fewer tabs are needed for more narrow curtains. Wider rods call for longer tabs. Once the strip is cut, fold it in half lengthwise and press. Tuck in the raw edges and press.

    Topstitch along both sides and cut individual tabs long enough to allow adequate clearance for your curtain rod to pass through. Fold the tabs in half and attach them to the right side of the fabric at six to eight inch intervals along the top edge.

    For added reinforcement, make your tabs long enough so that at least one inch of fabric remains on the inside. Cut a two inch strip of fabric the same width as your curtain. Now sew one long end to the top edge with right sides facing each other.

    Turn in the raw edge of the strip and topstitch at the top and bottom. If your tabs are long enough to reach to bottom of the strip, they are automatically reinforced by the second row of stitches.

    For Sewing Lined Curtains or drapes:

    Lined Curtains
    Lined Curtains

    Adding the right lining to your curtain can give lightweight curtains more body, increase your privacy, muffle outside noises and protect your curtains from sun damage.

    When lining your curtains, take the following steps:

    • Cut your curtain fabric as described above.
    • Cut your lining slightly smaller by reducing the seam allowance to 5/8” on all sides.
    • Press the seam allowances on your fabric as recommended in the ‘Tip’ above.
    • Sew mitered corners at the bottom hem. Attach the lining on both sides and the bottom with right sides facing each other. When you are done, you will have what resembles a gigantic pillow case or a duvet cover.
    • Finish your lined curtain by adding the top hem using any of the methods described above.

    Optional Tiebacks

    Curtain tieback
    Curtain tieback

    Your tiebacks can be as plain or as fancy as you want them to be. In addition to fabric, you will need fusible interfacing, double fold bias tape, or plastic rings and hooks. You may want to add piping or trim as well, especially if you plan to add a ruffle to your tiebacks.

    For simple band tiebacks, cut your fabric about eight inches high and approximately 24 inches wide. For a smoother finish, slightly taper your tie back at the ends before sewing. The width of your tiebacks will vary in accordance to the width of your curtain panels. Very wide panels call for longer tiebacks.

    Dimensions for a simple band tieback
    Dimensions for a simple band tieback

    For unruffled tiebacks, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the tieback band, fold it in half lengthwise and press. Fold the fabric lengthwise with the right sides facing each other. Sew or serge lengthwise.

    If you are using bias tape to hang your tiebacks, cut a length of bias tape to form a loop large enough to fit over the hook and insert it in the center of the open end with the loop inside and the ends flush with the edges of the fabric.

    Stitch the bias tape to close the open side. Reinforce the stitches to secure the loop. Clip the edges and corners and turn the tieback right side out. Turn the other end inside, insert the end of the second bias tape loop and topstitch. Press your tieback and set it aside while you repeat the process for your remaining tiebacks.

    If you use plastic rings as opposed to double fold bias tape, sew the tieback as described above, omitting the steps associated with bias tape and bar tack or sew the rings on by hand when each tie back is finished.

    Ruffled tiebacks
    Ruffled tiebacks

    Mount your hooks adjacent to the window frames, making sure they are all the same distance from the floor. Hang your tiebacks with the topstitched end facing the wall.

    If you prefer ruffled tiebacks, make the band height four inches rather than eight. If you use ruffled lace, fringe or pre-gathered ruffled fabric, cut the band and ruffle or fringe the same length. However, if you are making your own ruffle, cut the ruffle fabric two to 2 ½ times the length of the band. The height/depth of the ruffle is up to you.

    If you are using pre-ruffled fabric or fringe, sew it the right side of long edge of your tieback band. Make you own ruffle by using a gathering foot or a loose basting stitch and attaching the completed ruffle as described above.

    Give your ruffled tieback added pizzazz by inserting corded piping or trim at the point where the ruffle and band come together. Finish your ruffled tieback using the same method described above and enjoy your new window treatment.

    Sewing Valances

    Traditional valances
    Traditional valances

    You also have the option of making valances to match your curtains if you like. Valances are normally 18 inches high and like standard curtains, 2 ½ times the width of your curtains.

    The process for making traditional valances is identical for making curtains. The only difference is the height. If, however, you prefer a customized scalloped or geometrically shaped hem on your valance, you merely need to make that adjustment as you cut your bottom hem. Bear in mind that some fabrics are more suitable for such customization than others.

    It is also possible to make a curtain with an attached valance. This is particularly desirable if you want to adorn a window with a curtain and valance, but have the space or hardware to accommodate only one rod.

    The way to do this is to sew your curtain, leaving the top hem unfinished; then sew your valance but do not close the top hem. Attach the curtain and valance at the top edges with the right side of the curtain facing the wrong side of the valance.

    Finish the top hem and press. Your finished curtain with an attached matching valance is now ready to hang.

    Today, many interior designers and home sewers are opting to add a swag valance. Swag valances are the easiest of all to make.

    If a swag valance is in your future:

    • Measure the width of your window, starting and stopping with the points where you intend to hang your hardware.
    • Measure the length according to where you want the swag to stop. Swag valances can be as short as 18 inches on each side or long enough to puddle on the floor.
    • Multiply the desired length by two and add one and one half inch hem allowance on each end.
    • For the valance width, determine how deep you want your valance to be and add seam allowance. In most cases, valance depth is equal to the width of the fabric. In other words, most valances are simply cut lengthwise and the selvedges make up the long edges.
    • Hem your valance by hemming on all four sides and press.
    A ready hanged valance
    A ready hanged valance

    Your valance is now ready to hang. If your window is more than 24 – 28 inches wide, you may notice it sagging in the middle, especially if you use a heavy fabric or if you elect to add a lining to your valance.

    There are a number of ways for you to prevent this from happening. Our favorite method is to use a decorative hook and ring or fabric loop to support the valance at the center point.

    If you choose not use the hook and loop method, double stick Velcro is a viable option. It is invisible and gives the top of your valance a smooth even appearance.

    The final method for preventing a sagging valance is to give it a scalloped appearance by draping it over decorative hooks at equally spaced points along the top of your window. Over sided decorative rings can be use in lieu of the decorative hooks here.

    How to sew a curtain- Step by Step

    A step-by-step guide on how to sew a curtain is provided below:

    Step 1: Wash and iron the fabric
    Your fabric should first be pre-washed and dried. Next, iron the fabric lengthwise to remove any wrinkles. 

    Step 2: Cut the fabric
    Lay your fabric out on a gridded cutting mat. In order to cover the same amount of squares on both sides, align the selvages. The fabric’s cut end should then be examined. Cut a straight line parallel to the top edges of the selvage ends if the distance between the selvages is not uniform. For the opposite end of your fabric, repeat the same process. You’ll finally have a neat rectangle of cloth, which will greatly improve your sewing accuracy.

    Step 3: Stitching the sides
    The next step is to start sewing the sides. For this, vertically press the selvages inward towards the fabric’s wrong side. In most fabrics, the selvages begin at the printed edge. After pressing the selvage’s whole width once, fold the outside edge once more in the direction of your initial press line. It will result in a hem that is twice turned. Make a second selvage edge as before.

    Next, using a 3 mm straight stitch, sew the curtain sides down from top to bottom. Attempt to sew as closely as possible to the pressed edges. To assist you sew right up against that edge, you can use an edge stitching foot. Consider taut stitching your curtains as an alternative. Put one hand behind and one hand in front of the needle as you place your hands on the fabric to sew your curtains tautly. As you stitch, move your hands as a single unit in the direction of the machine’s back. The drag on the fabric will be reduced by doing this.

    Step 4: Include the curtain tab tape and finish sewing the top of the curtain
    After that, slightly (by 1/2 inch) push the top of the curtain to the incorrect side. The pushed edge should be in close proximity to the curtain tab tape. You just pressed back a portion and it ought to be covered. One of the tabs should be placed close to the curtain’s side.

    Begin sewing the tape over the top of the curtain just below its top edge. The tape should be cut off a few inches past the second side as you approach close to the end. The raw tape edge should be tucked under and flush with the side.

    Sew down the tape in a circular motion around the side, across the bottom edge, and then up the opposite side. By attaching the tape to the curtain’s top, you’ve simply created a rectangle. The top of your curtain has finally been sewn.

    Step 5: Stitching the hem
    First, hang the curtain by inserting the rod through the top tabs. You can choose how deep you want your hem to be from here. By 4-5 inches, press the hem back in the opposite direction. The raw edge should be folded back by 1/2 inch and pressed in the other direction.

    The curtain will hang more neatly thanks to this extra-deep hem. From this point, sew the hem in place across the pressed edge and down the sides.
    There you go, you’ve finally made your first curtain. You can now make more of them with a selection of lovely curtain fabrics following the above steps and decorate your entire house with your home-made curtains.

    Check out this easy tutorial video on how to sew a curtain:

    Note: Before hanging your finished curtains, you might prefer to iron them if you notice that they have a little crease. If your fabric is of velvet, the reverse side of such textiles should only be softly ironed, and for added protection, a moist towel should be placed between the fabric and the iron while ironing.

    1. Craftido-19 100% Cotton Fabric

    Craftido-19 Options-100% Cotton Fabric
    4.7
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    A medium-weight 5.2 ounce plain weave is featured on this 100% quality cotton fabric. After washing, there won't be much shrinkage. For sewing, quilting, and creative tasks like making curtains for your home, it is ideal because of its durability, gentle touch, strength, and breathability.

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    2. Japchet 10 Yards x 65 Inch Red Velvet Fabric

    JAPCHET 10 Yards x 65 Inch Red Velvet Fabric
    5.0

    This velvet material is thin, elastic, and ideal for many sewing projects. It is easy to wash, does not shrink or fade, and has a wonderful drape. It is a fantastic option for dresses, dancewear, and other garments as well as craft items like curtains.

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    3. Pllieay 39 x 55 Inch 100% Linen Fabric

    Pllieay 39 x 55 Inch 100% Linen Fabric
    3.5
    $28.99 $19.99

    This linen material is absorbent, durable, and quicker-drying than cotton. This slightly stretchy linen fabric can be used to make curtains, tablecloths, handicrafts, dresses, etc.

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    4. USA Fabric Store 100% Cotton Ranger Green Canvas Twill Fabric 68 Inch

    Upholstery 100% Cotton Pewter Gray 10 Ounces Bull Denim Canvas Twill Fabric
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    This canvas material is extremely abrasion resistant and has good tear strength. It is incredibly durable and adaptable. This cloth is of exceptional quality. No obvious bleeding or fading is present. The cloth has a plush texture and would create beautiful curtains.

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    Conclusion

    Sewing your own curtains is quite probably the most economical way to redecorate. Without changing any large pieces of furniture, a new set of curtains can give your home an entirely new appearance.

    Move a few small pieces of furniture like side tables, lamps or chairs from one room to another and rearrange some accent pieces like pictures, carvings or table decorations and you have a brand new room altogether.

    The best part of it all is the only cost to you was the price of the fabric and hardware and investing one afternoon of sitting at the sewing machine.

    Your room will look cozier right away with a gorgeously designed curtain made of excellent decorative cloth.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Q. Can a novice sew curtains?

    Ans. A great sewing project for beginners is making curtains, which is also a great way to give your area a personalized vibe. You can sew curtains even if you’ve only attempted sewing a few times.

    Q. What type of material works best for curtains?

    Ans. 100% cotton, 100% linen, or a linen and rayon combination are your finest choices. These fabrics are far more resilient, won’t wrinkle as easily, and won’t fade as quickly.

    Q. How do you choose a curtain’s style?

    Ans. The style of your home and the functionality you require will influence the style of your curtains. Depending on how your room is decorated, they might be either elegant or casual.




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    Happy Stitching.


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