how to sew pointe shoes

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How To Sew Pointe Shoes?

Hey there! You won’t believe how cool it is to sew your own pointe shoes – those special ballet shoes that let you dance like a star. Imagine having shoes that fit your feet perfectly and help you twirl and leap gracefully. When you sew your own pointe shoes, you get to customize them. You get to choose the materials, make them comfy, and even add ribbons to make them look beautiful. Overall, it’s about learning a skill that can make you feel like a real ballerina pro. So, grab your sewing kit and let’s take a fun journey into making your very own pointe shoes!

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    Understanding Pointe Shoe Anatomy

    The “uppers” of pointe shoes are the soft, fabric sections that envelop your toes and the front part of your foot. To maintain their shape and ensure a secure fit, you’ll need to stitch them securely to the sole. The uppers should snugly accommodate your foot, offering both comfort and support.

    The “sole” of a pointe shoe is typically constructed from a sturdy material like leather or satin. It plays a critical role in providing the necessary support while dancing on your toes. As you begin your sewing process, you’ll be attaching ribbons and elastic to this part, ensuring they are anchored firmly to support your movements.

    The “shank” of the pointe shoe is akin to an insole, providing essential arch support. It’s a crucial element for maintaining stability and balance during pointe work. As you sew your pointe shoes, it’s important to locate the shank and avoid sewing through it, as this could hinder its flexibility and your performance.

    The “box” of the pointe shoe encompasses the front part, where your toes are housed. Correctly sewing the box ensures the stability and shape of the shoe, allowing for a secure en pointe experience. A well-sewn box will support your toes while preventing discomfort and injury.

    To keep your pointe shoes securely on your feet, you’ll need to attach ribbons and elastic. These elements are usually sewn on the sides and back of the shoe, offering both security and tension to help you achieve a comfortable and controlled fit.

    Some pointe shoes come with a “drawstring” around the top of the uppers. This drawstring can be adjusted to achieve a snug fit, and you’ll want to secure it in place with well-placed stitches. With these drawstrings, your pointe shoes will feel like a second skin, ready for your dance endeavors.

    Choosing the Right Thread and Needle

    When it comes to selecting a thread for sewing pointe shoes, high-quality options like polyester or nylon is your best bet. These materials are known for their strength and resilience, which is crucial as pointe shoes undergo a lot of stress. It’s also available in a range of colors, ensuring you have no shortage of color choices.

    The needle you choose should be fine and sharp to effortlessly pass through the various layers of your pointe shoes. A size 8 to 10 needle is typically suitable for pointe shoe sewing. A sharp needle will create small holes in the fabric, reducing the risk of damaging the delicate materials. It’s also worth noting that some dancers prefer to use a curved needle for sewing pointe shoes, as it can make it easier to work in tight spaces and angles.

    Gathering the Necessary Supplies

    1. Pointe Shoe Materials

    • Satin or Canvas Fabric (for the Shoe Upper): Consider options like “Duchess satin” or “Satin Charmeuse” in a weight of around 12 mm or more. These satin types are known for their smooth surface and soft texture.
    • Leather or Suede Sole: This provides the necessary support and durability for the sole of the pointe shoe.
    • Cardboard: These are used for the shank.
    • Thread: High-quality thread usually nylon or dental floss.
    • Glue: Specifically designed for pointe shoes.

    2. Ribbons and Elastic

    • Ribbons: You’ll need these to secure the shoes around your ankles.
    • Elastic: Thin elastic is used to hold the shoe securely on your feet.

    3. Tools

    Steps To Sew Pointe Shoes

    Step 1: Take Measurements of Your Feet

    Start by having a measuring tape at the ready. Take the following measurements for both of your feet, as they may differ slightly:

    • Length: Measure from the tip of your longest toe (often the big toe) to the back of your heel. This measurement determines the overall length of the pointe shoe.
    • Width: Measure the widest part of your foot, which is often across the ball of the foot. This width measurement ensures the uppers of the pointe shoe provide ample space for your feet to splay and flex during dance.
    • Arch Height: Determine the height of your arch by measuring from the floor to the highest point of your arch. This measurement is important as it impacts the fit and support in the sole of the shoe.
    • Toe Circumference: Measure around your toes to ensure the fabric and the box of the pointe shoe will accommodate the shape of your toes comfortably.

    Step 2: Create a Pattern

    To begin, you’ll need a large sheet of tracing paper. Lay it flat on a fabric cutting table. Using your foot measurements as a guide, sketch the outline of the uppers on the paper. To represent the length, draw the outline of your foot from the tip of the longest toe (usually the big toe) to the back of your heel. This provides the overall length of the pointe shoe.

    For the width, sketch the widest part of your foot, which is typically across the ball of your foot. This width measurement ensures that the uppers will provide adequate room for your feet to flex and splay naturally during dance movements.

    Incorporate the arch height into the pattern by marking the highest point of your arch. Ensure that the pattern accommodates the height of your arch to provide proper support and comfort.

    Once the outline of the uppers is complete, you can add markings for the seam allowance, where the fabric will be sewn together. These markings ensure that you cut the fabric with enough extra material for sewing.

    Step 3: Cut the Fabric and Sole

    For the satin fabric, carefully measure and mark the dimensions of your pattern. When cutting the fabric, use sharp scissors and follow the markings precisely.

    For the leather or suede sole and the cardboard or pasteboard inner sole, use the same pattern. Pay close attention to the shape and size, as these components directly affect the fit and support of the pointe shoe.

    Step 4: Create the Shoe Upper

    Once you have the fabric pieces, you’ll need to stitch them together to create the upper. Start by sewing the toe box, vamp, quarters, and throat together, aligning them with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Use straight pins to secure the pieces in their correct positions. This will help keep the fabric in place as you sew and ensure that the components maintain their alignment.

    Begin by sewing the toe box to the vamp. The toe box is the part that covers the dancer’s toes, and the vamp is the section that covers the top part of the foot. Using a strong thread (such as dental floss or nylon) and a fine needle, sew the toe box and vamp together along the seam allowance. This seam should be durable, so make small, even stitches to ensure a secure connection. Use a backstitch or a similar strong stitch for added durability.

    The quarters are the sides of the upper that wrap around the sides of the foot. Align the quarters with the toe box and vamp, and pin them in place. Sew the quarters to the toe box and vamp using the same strong thread and fine stitches. Ensure that the seams are straight and even, and that the fabric is taut to maintain the correct shape.

    The throat is the part of the upper that covers the top of the foot and extends toward the ankle. Align the throat with the toe box, vamp, and quarters, and pin it in place. Stitch the throat to the other components using the same technique, making sure the seams are secure and the fabric maintains the desired shape.

    At the top of the shoe, create a casing for the drawstring. This casing allows the dancer to adjust the tightness of the shoe’s opening for a secure fit. Sew the casing in place, leaving an opening for threading the drawstring later in the process.

    Step 5: Attach the Sole

    Apply a thin, even layer of adhesive to both the bottom of the upper and the top of the sole material. Carefully place the sole material onto the bottom of the upper, ensuring that it aligns correctly with the shape of the shoe.

    Press the sole and upper firmly together to create a strong bond. Use your hands to apply even pressure across the entire sole to ensure that there are no air bubbles or gaps in the adhesive. You can also use a rolling pin to roll over the sole, ensuring a secure bond.

    The adhesive will typically require a specific drying time. It’s essential to allow ample time for the sole and upper to bond completely before proceeding to the next steps. After the sole has fully adhered to the upper, trim any excess sole material along the edge of the shoe.

    Step 6: Add the Shank

    The shank is usually made from a firm yet flexible material like cardboard, leather, or plastic. Cut the shank to the appropriate length and shape, ensuring it matches the curve of the arch.

    Place the shank between the layers of the sole and the upper. Carefully lift the upper to expose the sole. Position the shank in the center of the sole, following the curve of the arch, and align it with the corresponding part of the upper.

    Using the same adhesive you used for attaching the sole, apply a thin, even layer of adhesive to the shank’s surface that will come into contact with the sole and the upper.

    Gently lower the upper back onto the sole, sandwiching the shank between them. Ensure that the shank adheres securely to both the sole and the upper. Press down on the shank and apply even pressure to facilitate a solid bond.

    Step 7: Sew the Drawstring Casing

    The drawstring casing is typically created at the top edge of the shoe, just above the throat and where the ankle opening begins. This casing helps secure the shoe around the dancer’s ankle.

    Cut a strip of fabric, typically made from the same material as the upper, that will serve as the casing. The width of this strip should be wide enough to accommodate the drawstring comfortably.

    Fold the fabric strip in half lengthwise, with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. This will create a narrow, long strip. Pin the folded strip in place along the top edge of the shoe where you want to create the casing.

    Use a strong thread and a fine needle to stitch along the edge of the fabric strip, securing it to the upper. Ensure that the stitches are even and secure, as the casing will experience tension when the drawstring is tightened. Leave a small opening in the casing, usually at the back of the shoe, for threading the drawstring.

    Cut a piece of strong ribbon or cord, typically around 12 inches longer than the shoe opening’s circumference. Use a safety pin or a special threading tool designed for pointe shoes to thread the drawstring through the casing. Begin at the opening you left in the casing and continue until the drawstring is threaded all the way around.

    With the drawstring in place, you can now adjust the tightness of the shoe’s opening to your preference. Pull the drawstring tighter to secure the shoe around your ankle and tie it in a knot or bow. Cut any excess drawstring, leaving a small tail for easy adjustments if needed.

    Step 8: Attach the Ribbons and Elastics

    Cut the satin ribbons and elastics to the appropriate length. Typically, ribbons are about 2.5 times the length of your ankle, and elastics are approximately the length of your Achilles tendon.

    Determine where you want to attach the ribbons on the shoe. Most commonly, ribbons are sewn on the sides of the shoe, just above the heel. Begin by sewing the ribbons to the shoe, starting at the determined position. Insert the needle from the inside of the shoe to the outside. Secure the ribbon with a few stitches to ensure it’s firmly attached to the shoe. Be sure to sew through both the ribbon and the fabric of the shoe.

    Cross the ribbons over the arch of your foot, creating an “X” shape on the shoe. This helps distribute the tension and support evenly. Bring the ribbons to the other side of the shoe, opposite to where you started. Sew them securely in place, mirroring the stitches on the first side. Make sure the ribbons are snug but not too tight to allow for movement.

    Elastic bands are typically sewn at the back of the shoe, crossing the Achilles tendon area. This helps keep the heel of the shoe securely in place. Sew one end of the elastic band to the inside of the shoe, near the heel, ensuring it’s securely attached. Pull the elastic band over the heel of the shoe and position it on the other side. The elastic should be taut but not too tight, allowing for some flexibility. Sew the other end of the elastic band to the inside of the shoe, ensuring a secure attachment. Make sure the elastic doesn’t bunch or cause discomfort.

    To learn how to sew pointe shoes, be sure to watch this informative video:

    Troubleshooting Common Issues

    1. Fabric Bunching

    While sewing the uppers, you may encounter fabric bunching, which can result in an uneven appearance and affect the comfort of the pointe shoe.

    To address this issue, make sure you are sewing with an appropriate tension on your sewing machine. Adjust the machine’s tension settings to ensure a smooth, even stitch. Additionally, check that the fabric is feeding evenly through the machine, and hold it taut while sewing to prevent bunching.

    2. Uneven Seam or Stitching

    In some cases, the seam or stitching on the back of the pointe shoe may appear uneven or crooked, affecting the overall aesthetic of the shoe.

    To rectify this, double-check that the fabric is aligned properly before sewing the back seam. Use pins or fabric markers to mark the seam line to ensure an even stitch. Sew with a slow, steady hand to maintain control and achieve a straight seam.

    3. Sole Misalignment

    The leather or suede sole may not align perfectly with the uppers, resulting in a misshapen pointe shoe that can be uncomfortable to wear.

    When attaching the sole to the uppers, ensure that the edges match up accurately. Prior to sewing, use pins to hold the sole and uppers in place. Take your time and sew slowly to maintain alignment, preventing any misshaping.

    4. Elastic or Ribbon Inadequacies

    Elastic and ribbons that are too tight or too loose can impact the fit of the pointe shoes, potentially causing discomfort or insecurity.

    To address this, take measurements while sewing the ribbons and elastic, ensuring they are snug but not overly tight. Test the fit on your foot as you sew to make necessary adjustments.

    5. Box Shape

    The box of the pointe shoe, which encases your toes, may not maintain the desired shape, affecting support and aesthetics.

    To maintain the box’s shape, use your fingers to carefully shape the fabric as you sew. Be attentive to the angles and folds, and secure them with stitching to retain the proper box form. Reinforce the box’s structure if necessary with additional stitching.

    Summary

    Sewing pointe shoes is a delicate and essential skill for ballet dancers. Remember to start with a well-fitted shoe, prepare your materials, and take your time to sew carefully. Over time, you’ll be able to customize your pointe shoes to your liking, and enjoy a more comfortable and secure fit, making your ballet experience even more enjoyable.

    So, embrace the process, don’t rush, and enjoy the beautiful art of ballet. Keep in mind that proper pointe shoe care and maintenance are just as important as sewing, so make sure to maintain your shoes regularly. Happy dancing and may your pointe shoes carry you gracefully through every performance!

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Q. What are pointe shoes, and when are they used in dance?

    Ans. Pointe shoes are specially designed ballet shoes with a stiff toe box, enabling dancers to dance on the tips of their toes. They are typically used by ballet dancers for classical and pointe work.

    Q. Do I need to sew my own pointe shoes, or can I buy them pre-sewn?

    Ans. While you can buy pre-sewn pointe shoes, many dancers prefer to sew their own to customize the fit and break them in according to their preferences.

    Q. How do I determine the correct placement of the ribbons and elastic on my pointe shoes?

    Ans. Consult your ballet teacher or follow specific guidelines from your dance school. Generally, ribbons are sewn diagonally on the sides, and elastic is sewn in a loop at the back.

    Q. What type of stitch should I use to sew the ribbons and elastic on pointe shoes?

    Ans. Use a strong whipstitch or a blanket stitch to sew the ribbons and elastic securely. Make sure the stitches are tight to prevent them from coming loose during dance.

    Q. How can I protect the satin of my pointe shoes while sewing?

    Ans. Place a piece of tissue paper or fabric between the layers of satin when sewing to protect it from scuffs and damage. Remove it once the stitches are secure.

    Q. Can I sew my pointe shoes by hand, or is a sewing machine better?

    Ans. Sewing pointe shoes by hand is the traditional method and allows for greater control. A sewing machine may not be suitable due to the small, intricate work required.

    Q. How often should I check and re-sew my pointe shoes?

    Ans. Check your pointe shoes regularly for loose stitches or signs of wear. It’s common for dancers to re-sew the ribbons and elastic a few times throughout the life of a pair of pointe shoes.




    If you are an advanced sewist, have a look at our best sewing machines, best sewing books and best sewing magazines posts and if you are looking to get a mechanicalheavy duty, quilting or industrial sewing machine, have a look at some of our great articles. If you are a beginner sewist, review our best sewing books for beginners, best sewing machines for beginners and best sewing machines under $200 to get started.

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    Happy Stitching.


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