How To Sew a Shirt? A Step-By-Step Process

Funny enough, most people are reluctant to sew shirts, despite the fact that they are one of the most fundamental articles of clothing. I’m here to help you with that today through this post.

The exciting part is you may sew your own shirt that will almost resemble a store bought shirt, that too in a variety of different colors and fabrics by following just a few simple steps and using certain tools! After going through this post, you’ll see that a shirt can be sewn without having to be intimidating or difficult.

Let’s hop in immediately!

The Best Fabrics for your Shirt

Actually, this comes down to personal preference. We are all incredibly particular about the feel and fit of our shirts. Katoen is my top choice since it works well for both business-casual and informal contexts as well as everyday wear. While shirts made entirely of cotton are often the most comfortable, you can also choose shirts that are partly made of rayon, some spandex, and cotton.

Another excellent option that’s ideal for hot weather is linen because it’s light-weight and extremely breathable. Although it has a carefree, organic appearance, it wrinkles fast.

Zijde shirts seem lustrous and smooth, making them opulent. While they need additional attention, they look wonderful for formal events. Polyester blends are appropriate for activities that involve perspiration, such as travel.

My particular favorite are denim shirts since they look well with casual outfits that are influenced by workwear. Popeline is another excellent choice; it’s a smooth, light-weight fabric that works well for dress shirts and formal events.

Benodigde materialen

• Shirt Pattern: Choose a pattern that matches your desired shirt style and size. Make sure to follow the pattern instructions carefully.

• Fabric (Cotton, Linen, etc.): Select a fabric suitable for the style of shirt you want. Pre-wash and iron it to avoid shrinkage after sewing.

• Draad: Ensure that the draad color matches your fabric for a professional finish.

• Needles: Use fine naalden making sure it is suitable with the fabric type you’re working with.

• Schaar: Gebruik scherpe stof schaar to cut out the pattern pieces accurately.

• Pinnen: Pins are essential for securing fabric layers together during sewing.

• Naaimachine: A good quality naaimachine will make the process faster and more precise. Set your machine to the appropriate stitch length for each step.

• Iron: Frequent pressing with an ijzer is crucial for neat seams and to set folds and hems.

• Buttons: Choose buttons that match the style and color of your shirt. The pattern might specify button sizes.

• Interfacing (for Collar and Cuffs): Interface is essential to add structure to the collar and cuffs. Iron it onto the fabric as instructed in your pattern.

Steps To Sew a Shirt

Step 1: Cut Out the Pattern

To make a shirt, the very first step is to cut out the pattern pieces from the fabric. It’s important to be careful and accurate when cutting, so the shirt fits well when you put it together.

1. Lay out the fabric flat on a stoffen snijtafel. Carefully position the paper pattern pieces on the fabric. Ensure that the grain of the fabric aligns with the pattern’s grainline markings.

2. Use sharp fabric scissors to cut along the lines of the pattern pieces. Pay attention to pattern notches, which are small markings on the edges of the pattern pieces. They indicate where pieces should be aligned during sewing. These notches are crucial for ensuring that all parts of the shirt come together correctly.

3. As mentioned earlier, it’s essential to align the pattern’s grainline markings with the fabric’s grain. The grainline ensures that the fabric drapes properly when the shirt is worn.

4. Pattern pieces may have various markings, such as darts, pleats, or other design elements. Follow the pattern instructions to understand how these should be marked or transferred onto the fabric.

5. Some patterns might require additional pieces, such as interfacing for collars and cuffs, which you should also cut out at this stage.

Step 2: Prepare the Fabric

1. Iron the fabric to remove wrinkles. Fold the fabric in half, right sides together. This step is usually performed when you’re cutting mirrored pieces for the front and back of the shirt simultaneously. Folding the fabric ensures that both pieces are symmetrical.

2. Align the selvage edges (the finished edges of the fabric) together to ensure that the fabric is folded straight and even. Be attentive to the grain of the fabric; it should run parallel to the fold. If your fabric has a print, make sure it’s oriented correctly before folding.

3. Pin the fabric along the fold and the cut edges to hold it securely in place.

Step 3: Sew the Seams

1. Sew the side seams and shoulder seams together using a straight stitch. This step brings together the main body of the shirt. Use a medium-length straight stitch, typically around 2.5 mm, for these seams. The stitch should be secure but not too tight, as it allows some flexibility in the fabric.

2. Always begin and end your seam with a few backstitches. This strengthens the seam and keeps it from coming apart.

3. Align the fabric edges with precision before sewing. The right sides of the fabric should be facing each other. Ensure that the seam allowances, which are typically 5/8 inch or as specified in the pattern, are consistent.

4. Pay close attention to the seam allowance specified in your pattern. It’s the distance between the seam and the fabric edge. Accurate seam allowance ensures the proper fit of the shirt.

5. After stitching, press the seam allowances open with an ijzer. This flattens the seams and gives a polished appearance to the inside of the shirt. Press along the entire length of the seam.

6. If the seams you’re sewing have curves, such as the armholes, consider clipping or notching the seam allowances. This helps the fabric lay flat and reduces bulk.

7. In some cases, you may want to finish the seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or a serger to prevent fraying. Consult your pattern for guidance.

Step 4: Create the Neckline

Creating the shirt’s neckline is an important part of making a shirt. You cut and shape the fabric at the top so it fits your neck comfortably.

1. Fold the neckline edge about 1/4 inch (or as indicated in your pattern) to the WRONG side and press. The “wrong side” refers to the inside of the fabric, the side that won’t be visible when the shirt is worn.

2. Use a straight stitch to sew close to the folded edge. You can use a matching draad color for an inconspicuous look or a contrasting color for decorative stitching. A medium-length stitch works well for this step. It should be secure but not too tight.

3. Begin and end your stitching with a few backstitches to reinforce the edge.

4. Pay attention to the shape of your neckline. If it’s curved or has corners, sew slowly and pivot your fabric as needed to maintain a smooth, even stitch line.

5. If your neckline has tight curves, you may need to clip small notches into the seam allowance to allow the fabric to lay flat. Be careful not to cut into the seam itself.

6. When you reach the starting point, overlap your stitching slightly to secure the fold. Trim any excess thread.

Step 5: Sew the Shirt Yoke

Sewing a shirt yoke is about connecting the shoulders. You join the fabric pieces at the top to make the shirt fit well around the shoulders and upper back.

1. The yoke is a structural element of the shirt that helps shape the shoulders and upper back. First, ensure that you’ve marked and notched the yoke pieces as indicated on the pattern.

2. Place the right side of the back shirt piece and the yoke pieces together, matching the notches, seams, and markings as per your pattern instructions.

3. Use a straight stitch and the seam allowance specified in your pattern. Typically, this is around 5/8 inch. Begin sewing at the shoulder seams and continue down the back piece, following the pattern guidelines.

4. Start and end your stitching with a few backstitches to secure the seams.

5. After attaching the yoke to the back piece, stitch along the shoulder seams to connect the yoke to the back of the shirt. Here’s how to do it:

• Using the same seam allowance as before, sew the shoulder seams. Begin at the neckline and sew towards the outer edge of the shoulder.

• As with previous steps, backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to secure the stitches.

• Ensure that you align any notches on the yoke and back pieces to maintain proper alignment.

Step 6: Sew on the Shirt Collar

In this step, you need to attach the collar around the neck area. It gives the shirt a nice finish and makes it comfortable to wear.

1. Most collars are made of two pieces – the upper collar and the under collar. They are usually identical in shape but may differ in interfacing or construction.

2. Place the upper collar and under collar with their right sides together. Align the edges and the notches as indicated on your pattern.

3. Sew along the outer edges of the collar pieces, leaving the neckline edge open. Use a seam allowance according to your pattern instructions. Typically, this is around 5/8 inch.

4. If your collar has pointed corners, carefully clip the seam allowance at the corners to reduce bulk. Be cautious not to cut into the stitching.

Step 7: Attaching Your Collar to the Bodice

1. Pin the collar to the shirt neckline, enclosing the raw edges. Ensure that the right side of the collar is facing the right side of the shirt neckline.

2. Align any notches or markings on the collar and the neckline. These notches help in accurate placement and alignment.

3. Pin the collar evenly around the neckline, making sure there are no gathers or puckers. Start by pinning the center back of the collar to the center back of the neckline for symmetry.

4. If you left an opening when attaching the collar to itself, make sure to overlap the ends at the opening. This helps ensure a clean finish when you stitch over it.

5. Topstitching is the final step in attaching the collar to the bodice. Use a medium-length straight stitch for topstitching, typically around 3 mm. Sew close to the edge of the collar, which is usually around 1/8 inch or as specified in your pattern. Start and end your topstitching with a few backstitches to secure the stitching.

6. If your collar has corners, pivot your fabric as needed to maintain an even stitching line around them.

Step 8: Sew the Shirt Placket

Sewing a shirt placket is like making an opening in the front. This is where buttons or snaps go. It’s important to do it neatly for a good-looking shirt.

1. A placket is a fabric strip that reinforces the opening of the shirt and provides a neat finish. Ensure you have a fabric strip cut out for the placket. The placket can be made from the same or contrasting fabric.

2. Fold the shirt with right sides together along the center front, creating a fold line. The placket will be placed on the other side of this fold.

3. Fold the placket strip in half lengthwise with the right sides facing each other, and stitch the long edge to create a tube. This will be the outer edge of the placket.

4. Cut a slit down the center of the placket. This creates an opening for buttons. The length of this slit should correspond to the button area as specified in your pattern.

5. Use an iron to fold the edges of the placket to the inside. Fold the raw edges to align with the slit you’ve cut. Stitch close to the folded edges to secure them. You can use a straight stitch and match the draad color to your fabric.

6. Start and end your stitching with a few backstitches for added security.

Step 9: Sew on the Shirt Cuff

Sewing on a shirt cuff means attaching the part at the end of the sleeve. It gives the shirt a finished look and makes the sleeve fit nicely around your wrist.

1. Cuffs are typically made of two pieces – the cuff itself and a smaller cuff facing. Place the right sides together, aligning the edges and notches provided in your pattern. Ensure that the notches or markings on the cuff and facing match up.

2. Sew along the outer edges of the cuff and cuff facing pieces using a straight stitch. Use the seam allowance specified in your pattern, which is usually around 5/8 inch.

3. Fold the stitched cuff and facing in half lengthwise, right sides facing each other. This creates the folded cuff with the seam inside.

4. Sew along the raw edges of the folded cuff, typically using the seam allowance indicated in your pattern. This secures the cuff in its folded position.

5. Carefully reach through the opening of the folded cuff and turn it right side out. Gently push out the corners for a neat appearance. Use an iron to press the cuffs, ensuring they are crisp and well-shaped.

Step 10: Sew in the Sleeve

This step is basically attaching the sleeve to the shirt. It’s how you make the arms of the shirt. Doing this neatly is important for a well-made shirt.

1. Some shirt patterns may require you to gather the fabric on the sleeve cap. Use a long basting stitch on your naaimachine. Stitch along the seam allowance on the sleeve cap, typically within 1/4 inch from the edge.

2. Adjust your machine’s tension to create loose, easily pulled threads. This will allow you to gather the fabric when you pull the bobbin thread.

3. Carefully pull the bobbin thread to gather the fabric evenly. Adjust the gathers to match the length of the armhole on the shirt.

Step 11: Attach the Sleeves

1. Set your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch and sew along the raw edges of the sleeve seams. This prevents fraying and gives a clean finish. Alternatively, if you have a serger or overlock machine, you can use it to finish the edges of the sleeves.

2. Align the notches on the sleeve cap with the notches on the armhole. Ensure that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. If the sleeve cap has gathers, make sure they are evenly distributed along the armhole.

3. Check that any seams on the sleeve (such as the underarm seam) align with the side seams on the shirt body. Use pins to secure the sleeve to the armhole. Start by pinning at the notches, then distribute pins evenly along the seam.

4. Sew along the seam allowance indicated in your pattern, typically around 5/8 inch. Use a straight stitch to secure the sleeve to the armhole. Start and end your stitching with a few backstitches to secure the seams.

5. After stitching, press the seam allowances toward the sleeves to create a smooth finish. This helps the shirt sit comfortably on the shoulders.

Step 12: Finish the Hem

1. Turn up the raw edge of the shirt’s lower edge to the inside, typically by 1 to 2 inches, or as specified in your pattern.

2. Use an iron to press the folded edge, ensuring it lies flat and creates a crisp hem. Pressing helps set the fold and makes it easier to sew.

3. For hemming, use a medium-length straight stitch, typically around 2.5 mm to sew close to the folded edge of the hem. Start and end your stitching with a few backstitches.

4. Use an iron to press the hem one more time. This final press sets the stitches and provides a polished appearance to the lower edge of the shirt.

Step 13: Add Buttons and Buttonholes

1. Start by marking where the buttonholes will be placed on the button band. This is typically done on the side of the shirt with the button band (often the left side for men’s shirts and the right side for women’s shirts). The pattern you’re working with will specify the number of buttons and their placement.

2. Measure and mark the spacing for the buttonholes, ensuring they are evenly distributed and align with the corresponding markings on the opposite side of the shirt. The pattern will indicate the size of the buttonholes.

3. Ensure your sewing machine is set to the buttonhole function. Stitch the buttonholes on the marked locations. The machine will automatically create the buttonhole with the specified length.

4. Once the buttonholes are stitched, carefully cut open the center of each buttonhole using a seam ripper or small scissors.

5. Mark the positions for the buttons on the opposite side of the button band. These marks should align with the buttonholes on the opposite side of the shirt.

6. Starting from the inside of the shirt, bring the thread and naald up through the fabric at one of the marked button positions. Pass the needle through one of the buttonholes and then back down through the fabric. Repeat this process several times to secure the button in place.

7. Once the button is securely attached, knot the thread on the inside of the shirt to prevent the button from coming loose.

8. Repeat this process for all the buttons on the shirt, ensuring that they are evenly spaced and securely attached.

Step 14: Final Touches

1. Trim any excess thread with small scissors to give your shirt a tidy appearance.

2. A final overall pressing is a must. Pressing the shirt one last time ensures all elements are crisp and well-shaped.

3. After completing your shirt, it’s a good idea to try it on to ensure it fits as expected. Check for comfort, fit, and any areas that might need adjustments.

Finally, you’ve done an extraordinary job of sewing your own shirt. Enjoy the satisfaction of wearing or showcasing your handmade shirt!

If you want a video tutorial on sewing a button up shirt, make sure to check this out:

Laatste gedachten

It can be a creative and satisfying project to sew your own shirt. Along with achieving the ideal fit and developing useful sewing skills, it lets you express your own style. You might be amazed at what you can make, so don’t be hesitant to give it a try!

Also, handcrafted shirts are lovely and considerate presents that let your loved ones know how much thought and care you put into creating something special. Want to try out some other great sewing gifts? Check out our post on the best sewing gifts hier.

So, in order to create fashionable, personalized shirts that make wonderful gifts, gather your sewing supplies, select your favorite fabric, and get to work. Enjoy your shirt stitching!

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