how to sew pleather

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How To Sew Pleather?

Hi there!

Being able to sew pleather is a fantastic adventure into the world of crafting and fashion, and I can’t wait to tell you all about it. Why should you learn to sew pleather, you may ask? With pleather, you can create stylish and unique fashion pieces like skirts, jackets, and handbags. Imagine designing your own edgy biker jacket or a sleek pleather skirt that perfectly fits your style. Plus, pleather doesn’t stop at clothing; you can craft chic accessories, like wallets, belts, and even home decor items like cushions or placemats.

Sewing with pleather has always been my favorite, and I’m here to guide you through the process, step by step. It’s a material that is very easy to sew with so many different techniques. So, come along on this pleather sewing adventure, and let’s explore the amazing things you can create together!

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    Types of Pleather and Their Characteristics

    You might be wondering, “What exactly is pleather?” Well, it’s a synthetic leather substitute that can be a fantastic choice for sewing projects. But not all pleather is the same. Here are some common types and their unique characteristics:

    • Vinyl Pleather

    Vinyl pleather is one of the most affordable options. It’s known for its durability and water-resistant qualities, making it a great choice for items like bags and accessories. Plus, it’s available in thrilling colors and textures, so you can get creative with your projects.

    • PU Pleather (Polyurethane)

    PU pleather is often mistaken for real leather because of its soft, leather-like texture. It’s light-weight, flexible, and breathable, making it suitable for clothing items, such as skirts and jackets. This type is also available in various colors and finishes.

    • Leatherette

    Leatherette pleather is designed to mimic the look and feel of genuine leather. It can be a bit more expensive, but the quality is often worth it. This type is perfect for making high-end fashion items or upholstery projects.

    • Suede-Backed Pleather

    If you’re looking for a pleather with a luxurious suede texture on one side and a leather-like finish on the other, suede-backed pleather is the way to go. It’s great for crafting accessories and interior decorations.

    • Glitter or Metallic Pleather

    For a bit of glam and sparkle in your projects, consider using glitter or metallic pleather. It’s excellent for making eye-catching bags, wallets, and costumes.

    Aim for These Needle and Thread

    For most pleather types, a “universal needle” in size 11 or 14 should work well. These needles have a slightly rounded point that can pierce through pleather without tearing it.

    If you’re working with thicker or more heavy-duty pleather, consider using “leather needles.” They have a chisel-point tip, designed for sewing through tough materials like leather and some pleather varieties.

    “Microtex needles” can also be a great choice if you’re working with delicate or fine pleather. They have a very sharp point that creates clean, precise stitches.

    “Polyester thread” is an excellent choice for sewing pleather because it’s strong and durable. It can withstand the stress that might be put on your seams.

    When working with thicker pleather or on items that will be subjected to a lot of wear and tear, consider using a “heavy-duty or upholstery thread.” It’s designed to handle heavy fabrics.

    For decorative topstitching on your pleather projects, opt for a thicker “topstitching thread.” This can add a stylish finish to your items.

    Supplies Needed

    Before you start sewing pleather, keep these supplies by your side:

    • Pleather Fabric: You’ll need your chosen pleather fabric in the appropriate amount for your project. Make sure to wash and dry it to remove any creases or odors.
    • Interfacing (Optional): Depending on your project, you may need interfacing to add structure or support to certain areas, such as collars or cuffs.
    • Lining Fabric (Optional): If your project requires a lining, choose a suitable lining fabric that complements your pleather.
    • Sewing Machine: A sewing machine with adjustable settings is highly recommended for pleather projects.
    • Iron: You’ll need an iron to press seams and eliminate wrinkles in your pleather. Set it to a low temperature and use a pressing cloth to avoid direct contact with the pleather.
    • Seam Ripper: Mistakes happen, so having a seam ripper on hand will help you correct any errors without damaging your pleather.
    • Clips: Use clips designed for sewing with pleather to hold your fabric in place while sewing.
    • Cutting Tools: Sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter with a cutting mat are essential for cutting your pleather accurately.
    • Marking Tools: Chalk or washable fabric markers are useful for marking stitching lines or pattern adjustments on your pleather.
    • Teflon or Non-stick Presser Foot: These special presser feet can prevent your pleather from sticking to the machine’s foot as you sew, ensuring smoother stitches.
    • Walking Foot: If you have one, a walking foot can help feed pleather evenly through your sewing machine, reducing the risk of stretching or shifting.
    • Seam Roller (Optional): A seam roller can be handy for pressing seams open without using an iron, especially for sensitive pleather types.

    Steps To Sew Pleather

    Let’s go through the steps to sew pleather, covering each step one by one:

    Step 1: Sewing Machine Setup

    As discussed earlier, choose the right needle for your pleather type. A universal needle in size 11 or 14 is a good starting point. Select a high-quality polyester thread that matches the color of your pleather. Thread the machine, following your machine’s threading instructions.

    Set your sewing machine to a medium-length straight stitch (around 2.5 mm to 3 mm) to begin. This stitch length is suitable for most pleather projects. Check your machine’s tension settings. Pleather can be thicker than standard fabrics, so you may need to slightly adjust the upper thread tension.

    If you have a Teflon or non-stick presser foot, consider using it to prevent the pleather from sticking to the foot as you sew. This ensures smoother stitching. If available, a walking foot can help feed pleather evenly through the machine, minimizing stretching or shifting during sewing.

    Step 2: Pattern Selection and Alteration

    Selecting the right pattern and making any necessary alterations are essential steps when working with pleather. Begin by choosing a sewing pattern that matches your desired pleather project. Patterns for items like bags, skirts, jackets, and accessories work well with pleather.

    You can try out this cute short jacket pattern!

    Carefully measure yourself or the person the garment is intended for. Follow the pattern’s sizing chart to determine the appropriate size to cut. Keep in mind that pleather doesn’t have the same stretch as some fabrics, so it’s important to choose the correct size for a comfortable fit.

    After selecting the size, consider any alterations needed to ensure a perfect fit. Common alterations include lengthening or shortening hems, adjusting sleeves, and accommodating for waist or hip measurements. When altering the pattern, remember to transfer these changes accurately to your pleather fabric.

    Check the pattern’s seam allowances. Standard seam allowances are often 5/8 inch (1.5 cm), but some pleather patterns may have wider allowances to accommodate for bulk. After achieving the desired fit and look with your mockup, transfer any alterations and adjustments back to your paper pattern. This updated pattern will be your guide for cutting the pleather.

    Step 3: Cutting and Marking Pleather

    Place your paper pattern pieces on the pleather. When cutting pleather, use slow and deliberate motions with your sharp fabric scissors. For curved or intricate sections, make small snips instead of long continuous cuts to maintain control and accuracy.

    Use chalk or washable fabric markers to mark any points or lines on the pleather that are indicated in your pattern. These marks may include darts, notches, and seam lines. Pay special attention to notches, as they are essential for aligning and matching pleather pieces during assembly. Carefully mark and transfer these notches to your pleather.

    If your pattern requires markings on the wrong side of the fabric, consider using tracing paper to transfer these markings.

    Step 4: Pinning and Clipping Techniques

    Traditional pins with sharp points can leave permanent holes in pleather, so it’s best to avoid them. Instead, opt for clips designed for pleather or other specialty sewing clips. These clips have flat, rounded edges that won’t damage the fabric.

    When pinning or clipping pleather pieces together, always place your pins or clips within the seam allowance. This means positioning them just outside the seam line, typically at 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) from the edge.

    Space your pins or clips closer together than you would with traditional pins. Pleather can be slippery, and having more pins or clips helps to keep the fabric layers aligned. When pinning or clipping around notches, make sure they’re not obstructed by pins or clips.

    Some sewists prefer using fabric glue as an alternative to clips. Fabric glue can temporarily hold pleather pieces in place without leaving marks. Be sure to use a fabric glue that is suitable for the type of pleather you’re working with.

    Step 5: Seams and Seam Finishes

    Choose the type of seam that best suits your project. Common options for pleather include plain seams, French seams, and flat-felled seams. For added strength, consider topstitching seams both for reinforcement and as a decorative element.

    • Use a medium to slightly longer stitch length (around 3 mm) to prevent perforating the pleather with closely spaced stitches. When sewing a plain seam, place the right sides of the pleather pieces together. Pin or clip along the seam line within the seam allowance. Stitch slowly and evenly, keeping the seam aligned.
    • French seams are excellent for light-weight pleather projects as they encase the raw edges, giving a clean finish. First, sew the wrong sides of the pleather together with a narrow seam allowance. Then, trim the seam allowance, press it flat, and fold the fabric along the seam so that the right sides are together. Stitch a second time to encase the raw edges.
    • Flat-felled seams are ideal for heavy-weight pleather and add extra durability to your project. Place the wrong sides of the pleather pieces together, and stitch a seam within the seam allowance. Trim one side of the seam allowance, fold the other side over the trimmed side, and stitch the folded side down.

    Finish your seams to prevent fraying and ensure longevity. For pleather, overlocking or serging is not recommended as it can add bulk. Instead, consider the following seam finishing options: trimming the seam allowance with pinking shears, applying fabric glue to the raw edges, or using a specialty seam sealing product designed for pleather.

    Step 6: Topstitching and Edge Stitching

    • For topstitching, choose a thicker topstitching thread as it can add a stylish finish to your project. Use a longer stitch length (around 3.5 mm to 4 mm) for topstitching. Longer stitches are not only decorative but also provide added strength. Topstitching can be applied along seams, edges, or as decorative elements. Stitch parallel to the edge or seam, typically about 1/8 inch (3 mm) away from it. If you have a walking foot attachment for your sewing machine, consider using it for topstitching. A walking foot helps to feed the pleather evenly and prevents stretching or shifting.
    • You can also opt for edge stitching instead of topstitching. Edge stitching is similar to topstitching but typically involves stitching very close to the edge of a seam. Align the edge of your pleather piece with the edge of your presser foot. Employ a longer stitch length (around 3.5 mm) for edge stitching. Edge stitching can be applied along hems, cuffs, collars, and any exposed edges to provide a professional finish.

    Step 7: Adding Snaps, Zippers, or Buttons

    Attaching closures like snaps, zippers, or buttons is a critical step in many pleather sewing projects.

    1. Snaps

    • Snaps come in different types, such as sew-on, prong, or spring snaps. Choose whatever suits you best.
    • Use fabric marker to mark the precise locations for the snaps on your pleather pieces.
    • To make holes for sew-on snaps, use a small sharp hole punch or a specially designed snap tool. Ensure the holes are just large enough for the snap prongs to pass through.
    • Sew-on snaps require stitching through the prongs to secure them. Use a strong polyester thread that matches the pleather color. For prong or spring snaps, use a snap-setting tool to attach them securely.

    2. Zippers

    • For pleather, metal or plastic zippers are usually preferable, as they won’t damage the fabric during use.
    • Mark the exact location where the zipper will be placed on your pleather pieces fabric marker.
    • To insert the zipper, you’ll need to create an opening in the pleather. Use a seam ripper or a rotary cutter with a cutting mat to make a straight slit.
    • Position the zipper behind the pleather opening and use clips to hold it in place. Ensure it’s centered and aligns with the marks you made.
    • Use a zipper foot attachment on your sewing machine to sew the zipper in place. Stitch slowly and carefully along both sides of the zipper, ensuring it’s evenly inserted.

    3. Buttons

    • Choose buttons that match the size appropriate for your pleather project.
    • Use fabric marker to mark the positions for the buttons on your pleather.
    • To accommodate the buttons, create buttonholes in your pleather. Use a buttonhole foot attachment on your sewing machine to create them.
    • Attach the buttons securely by hand using a strong thread. Sew through the pleather several times to ensure the buttons are firmly attached.
    • If you’re attaching buttons to areas that will experience stress, like waistbands or pockets, consider adding extra reinforcement using reinforcing stitches.

    Step 8: Creating Pleats and Darts in Pleather

    Pleats and darts are essential techniques for shaping your pleather projects.

    1. Pleats

    • Mark the locations where you want to create pleats. Pleats are typically marked as lines or arrows on your pattern pieces.
    • To create a pleat, fold the pleather along the marked lines, aligning the edges accurately. The fold should point towards the center of the pleat, and the marked lines should match up.
    • To secure the pleat, stitch across the top edge of the fold, following the seam allowance. Use a longer stitch length and ensure the pleat is secure but not overly bulky.
    • After sewing, gently press the pleats with a cool iron on the wrong side of the pleather to flatten and set them.

    2. Darts

    • Dart markings are typically indicated on your pattern pieces as lines and points. Transfer these markings to the pleather.
    • To create a dart, fold the pleather along the marked lines, bringing the marked points together. The folded edge should align with the marked lines.
    • Stitch along the folded edge of the dart, starting at the wider end and tapering to a point. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitching.
    • After sewing, press the darts flat with a cool iron on the wrong side of the pleather. The darts should lie flat and create a tailored shape in your project.

    Step 9: Decorative Techniques and Embellishments

    There are times you may want to add decorative elements and embellishments to your pleather projects. Here’s a brief idea on what technique will work best for you:

    1. Studs and Rivets

    Studs and rivets are popular for adding an edgy or rugged look to pleather projects, such as bags or jackets.

    • Use a marking tool to indicate where you want to place the studs or rivets.
    • Use a leather hole punch or awl to create holes in the pleather for the hardware.
    • Insert the studs or rivets through the holes and secure them following the manufacturer’s instructions.

    2. Embroidery

    Embroidery can add lovely designs to your pleather project.

    • Use an embroidery hoop to keep the pleather taut and prevent puckering while you stitch.
    • Select embroidery floss or thread that complements the pleather’s color.
    • Consider using a tear-away stabilizer on the back of the pleather to support the stitches.

    3. Patches

    Sew-on or iron-on patches can be a fun way to add character to your pleather project.

    • Position the patch where you want it and secure it with pins.
    • Hand-stitch around the edges of the patch to attach it securely, or follow the instructions if it’s an iron-on patch.

    4. Piping and Binding

    Piping or binding in a contrasting color can create a striking accent on your pleather project.

    • Use a zipper foot or a piping foot attachment to sew piping neatly along seams or edges.
    • Binding can be sewn to the raw edges of pleather to provide a finished look.

    5. Beads and Sequins

    Beads and sequins can add a touch of sparkle to your pleather project.

    • Mark the locations for the beads or sequins and use a beading or sequin needle to attach them securely.
    • Consider using beading or sequin thread for added strength.

    6. Faux Leather Applique

    Faux leather or pleather applique pieces can be added for a bold, three-dimensional effect.

    • Cut out the desired shapes from pleather.
    • Secure them with fabric glue or by stitching around the edges.

    7. Heat Transfer Vinyl

    Heat transfer vinyl (HTV) can be used to create intricate designs on pleather, especially for personalization.

    • Cut out the desired design from HTV.
    • Apply it to the pleather following the manufacturer’s instructions.

    Interested in viewing a tutorial on working with pleather? Take a look at this!

    Summary

    Yay, you’re all done sewing pleather, and that’s so cool! You’re a real sewing superstar, and there’s no stopping you now. Keep practicing and making all sorts of awesome things with pleather. Who knows, you might even create a pleather superhero cape or a sparkly bag for your toys. Remember, sewing is all about having fun and being as creative as you want!

    So, go ahead and keep those threads and needles dancing. Whether it’s a fancy dress, a cozy pillow, or something totally unique, you’ve got the sewing power to make it happen. Stay creative, keep smiling, and enjoy every stitch!

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Q. How do I cut pleather without it fraying or getting damaged?

    Ans. To cut pleather without fraying, use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Place a piece of masking tape or clear tape on the cut line before cutting to prevent the material from sticking. This will give you cleaner edges.

    Q. Can I sew pleather with a regular sewing machine foot, or do I need a walking foot or Teflon foot?

    Ans. While you can sew pleather with a regular sewing machine foot, using a walking foot or Teflon foot is highly recommended. These specialized feet help reduce friction and ensure a smoother feed, preventing pleather from sticking or getting caught.

    Q. How can I mark pleather for sewing without leaving visible marks?

    Ans. Use chalk or disappearing ink fabric markers for marking pleather. These tools will leave minimal or temporary marks that won’t be visible on the finished project.

    Q. What’s the best way to handle seams and hems on pleather garments?

    Ans. For seams, you can topstitch them to help them lay flat and look more finished. When hemming pleather, use a glue adhesive or double-sided tape designed for fabric to secure the hem in place before sewing, as pins can leave permanent marks.

    Q. Can pleather be washed in a washing machine like real leather or should it be hand-washed?

    Ans. Pleather can generally be hand-washed using mild soap and water, but it’s important to check the care instructions provided with your specific pleather fabric. Hand-washing is gentler on the material and helps prolong its life.

    Q. Is it possible to create decorative stitches or embroidery on pleather?

    Ans. Yes, you can create decorative stitches and embroidery on pleather. Use a leather or heavy-duty needle, and test your stitching on a scrap piece first to ensure you achieve the desired look without damaging the material.

    Q. What should I do if I accidentally puncture or create holes in pleather while sewing?

    Ans. If you accidentally puncture pleather, you can repair small holes with a small amount of pleather glue or a clear adhesive specifically designed for repairing fabric. Make sure to let it dry completely before using or wearing the item.

    Q. Are there any specific care tips for storing pleather items to maintain their quality?

    Ans. When storing pleather items, keep them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Use padded hangers or fold them gently to avoid creasing. Avoid hanging heavy items on pleather garments, as this can cause stretching or damage.




    If you are an advanced sewist, have a look at our best sewing machines, best sewing books and best sewing magazines posts and if you are looking to get a mechanicalheavy duty, quilting or industrial sewing machine, have a look at some of our great articles. If you are a beginner sewist, review our best sewing books for beginners, best sewing machines for beginners and best sewing machines under $200 to get started.

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    Happy Stitching.


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