How To Sew a Welt Pocket – Step-By-Step Guide With Video

As you might be aware, a welt pocket is a lovely slit pocket with a tied pocket opening that is typically found in coats and jackets. Basically, it is a pocket bag on the incorrect side of the garment to which a zipper closure can be added as well. They come in pretty much any size. Additionally, they give your clothings an incredibly exquisite appearance.

It’s not particularly difficult to make welt pockets. In order to get it perfect on your first attempt, you must, however, pay close attention to every detail outlined in this post. Before you begin sewing, read this post to fully understand the procedure; after doing so, you’ll be able to create the ideal welt pocket!

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So, what exactly is a Welt Pocket?

A welt pocket is a type of pocket commonly found on clothing, particularly on jackets, trousers, and vests. It consists of a narrow, rectangular slit or opening with the edges reinforced with fabric or welting.

Welt pockets can be functional or purely decorative. They are often used to create a streamlined and polished look in tailored garments and are typically sewn into seams or along the edges of a garment. To use the pocket, you can open the welt by lifting the flap of fabric covering the slit.

Steps To Sew a Welt Pocket with an Existing Pattern

Sewing a welt pocket can be a bit complex, but I have provided detailed step-by-step instructions as mentioned below. Make sure you have all your pattern pieces ready, including the pocket bag, welt pocket piece, and interfacing.

Here’s what you’ll need:

To create a welt pocket, you’ll need a few essential supplies to ensure a clean and professional finish. Here’s a list of the supplies you’ll require:

• Fabric: You’ll need fabric for both the pocket bag and the welt part of the pocket. These pieces can be made from the same fabric as the outside of the garment for a seamless look, or you can choose contrasting fabrics for a stylish touch.

• Fusible Interfacing: Fusible interfacing is essential to reinforce the pocket, preventing it from stretching or sagging over time. It’s usually applied to the wrong side of the fabric.

• Basic Sewing Machine: A standard sewing machine is essential for stitching the pocket components together neatly.

• Thread: Choose a thread that matches the color of your fabric for a discreet finish. This thread will be used to sew the pocket and secure the welt.

• Needle: Ensure you have the appropriate sewing machine needle for your fabric. For most medium-weight fabrics, a universal needle should suffice.

• Scissors: High-quality fabric scissors are crucial for cutting the fabric precisely. Invest in a pair that is sharp and comfortable to handle.

• Pins: Pins are indispensable for securing the fabric layers in place before sewing. You’ll use them to hold the welt in position and keep the pocket bag aligned.

• Ruler: A ruler is necessary to measure and mark the pocket’s dimensions accurately. You’ll need this to create the welt and determine the pocket’s size.

• Marking Tools: Use chalk or a removable fabric marker to make precise markings on your fabric. This helps you trace the pocket’s outline and welt placement accurately.

Step 1: Prepare Pattern Pieces

Follow your pattern instructions and prepare all the necessary pieces for the pocket: the pocket bag, welt pocket piece, and interfacing.

Step 2: Mark Pocket Placement

Transfer the welt pocket markings onto the front of the garment. These markings should be made on both the front and back of the garment. Adjust the width if you want a narrower welt pocket.

Step 3: Apply Interfacing

Fuse the interfacing to the WRONG side of the garment at the desired pocket placement. Also, fuse the interfacing on the WRONG side of one of the pouch pieces, leaving a 1 ½ inch (4 cm) gap at the top. This will be the fabric visible on the outside.

Step 4: Pin Pouch Piece

Pin the pouch piece to the FRONT of the garment with right sides together, ensuring that the marked dots for placement match up and that the lines on the interfacing are aligned.

Step 5: Machine Stitch Welt Lines

On the wrong side of the fabric, machine stitch along the top and bottom marked lines, stopping precisely at the marked dots. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end for secure stitching.

Step 6: Cut the Slit

Draw a triangle at each end and a line through the center. The triangles should finish about ½ inch (12 mm) from the end of the stitching. Use a rotary cutter or sharp scissors to cut a slit through both layers of fabric between the two stitching lines of the welt. Avoid cutting into the actual stitching.

Step 7: Trim Corners

Use small sharp scissors to cut a Y shape into the corners at both ends of the slit, but do not cut into the stitching.

Step 8: Press Seam Allowance

Press the cut seam allowance open at the top and the bottom of the welt, all the way to the ends of the cut Y shape.

Step 9: Pull Pouch Through

Turn the garment to the wrong side and reach through the opening to pull the pouch rectangle through to the wrong side of the garment. Press the rectangle flat.

Step 10: Adjust Welt Opening

Gently pull the corners of the welt fabric until it forms a rectangular opening. Check your trimming inside if you feel the pocket is not lying correctly.

Step 11: Fold Pouch

Grab the edges of the pouch a couple of inches down and pinch it into a fold. Bring this fold up to the top of the welt opening and press the folded edge. There should only be a tiny slit visible.

Step 12: Secure Fold

Open up the sides of the garment to reveal the little triangles of the welt piece. Stitch the triangles to the pouch as close to the garment as possible, backstitching to secure the ends. This will hold the fold of fabric in place, leaving nothing visible on the outside of the garment.

Step 13: Topstitch

Flip the garment over and topstitch through all layers along the sides and bottom of the welt pocket. Use a matching bobbin thread to your pouch color for a clean finish.

Step 14: Complete the Pouch

Finally, trim your second pouch piece so it matches the size of the pocket lining piece. Place them right sides together and stitch around the top, bottom, and sides of the pocket bag, making sure you’re only stitching through the pouch and not through the garment front. Turn your fabric to the front side and sew a topstitch along the upper edge.

There you go! Your expertly crafted welt pocket is now finished!

Here’s a video tutorial for sewing a welt pocket:

Steps to make your own Welt Pocket Pattern

If you wish to create your personal welt pocket pattern, follow these steps:

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Fabric for the Pocket Pouch (2 pieces, 8 inches x 8 inches)
• Interfacing (2 inches wide by 8 inches long)
• Fabric for the Garment
• Basic Sewing Machine
• Thread
• Needle
• Other Basic Sewing Supplies commonly found in Sewing Kits

Step 1: Cut Interfacing

Cut the interfacing into two pieces, each measuring 2 inches in width and 8 inches in length. These pieces will serve as the interfacing for the pocket facing and the garment facing.

Step 2: Prepare Pocket Pouch

Cut two pieces of fabric, each measuring 8 inches by 8 inches. These pieces will be used to create the pocket pouch. The pocket pouch should be at least 2 inches wider than the finished pocket.

Step 3: Assemble the Pocket

Take one of the 8×8 fabric pieces, which will be the exterior of the pocket, and place it right side up. Center the 2-inch wide interfacing along the top edge of the fabric, aligning the long edges. This will be the pocket facing. Place the other 8×8 fabric piece (for the interior of the pocket) right side down on top of the first piece, sandwiching the interfacing in between.

Pin the three layers together, ensuring they are aligned. Sew along the top edge (where the interfacing is) with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, securing the pocket pouch layers together. This will create the pocket pouch.

Step 4: Trim and Turn

Trim any excess fabric along the top edge and clip the corners for easier turning. Carefully turn the pocket pouch inside out so that the right side of the fabric is facing outwards. Press it flat with an iron.

Step 5: Attach Pocket to Garment

Position the pocket pouch on the garment where you want the welt pocket to be. Sew around three sides of the pocket pouch, leaving the top open. Ensure that you are only sewing through the pocket pouch and the garment fabric, not the pocket facing.

Step 6: Create the Welt

To create the welt, you’ll fold the remaining top edge of the pocket pouch to the inside of the garment. The welt should measure one inch (2.5 cm) in width, as mentioned in the instructions. Secure the folded edge in place by stitching along the sides.

Step 7: Finish the Welt Pocket

Ensure that the folded edge forms a clean, straight line for your welt. Finish the pocket by sewing the sides of the welt to the garment fabric, securing the pocket in place. You can add a button or buttonhole for closure, if desired.

Welt Pocket Types

This post’s sewing tutorial is for a basic welt pocket. You can get further welt pocket inspiration from the following different types:

1. Single Welt Pocket: This is the simplest and most common type of welt pocket. It consists of a single horizontal slit with a welt (a strip of fabric) sewn over it. This pocket can be found on jackets, pants, and skirts.

2. Double Welt Pocket: This type features two parallel slits with welts sewn over them. Double welt pockets are often seen on blazers, suit jackets, and tailored trousers, giving a refined and symmetrical appearance.

3. Flap Welt Pocket: These welt pockets have an additional flap attached over the welt, providing extra protection and style. The flap can be left hanging open or tucked into the pocket. Flap welt pockets are commonly found on blazers and coats.

4. Jetted Welt Pocket: Instead of a visible welt, jetted welt pockets have a hidden welt, creating a cleaner and more minimalist look. They are frequently used on formal attire and tuxedos, giving a streamlined appearance.

5. Slanted Welt Pocket: Slanted welt pockets are typically found on jackets and blazers. The welt is set at an angle, which not only adds a decorative element but also allows for easier access to the pocket.

6. Patch Welt Pocket: This is a combination of a patch pocket and a welt pocket. It features a visible rectangular or square pocket with a welt around the edges. Patch welt pockets are often seen on casual jackets and trousers.

7. In-Seam Welt Pocket: These welt pockets are sewn into the seam of a garment, making them less visible and more inconspicuous. In-seam welt pockets are commonly used on trousers, dresses, and skirts.

8. Zippered Welt Pocket: In addition to the welt, these pockets feature a zipper for added security. Zippered welt pockets are often found on outdoor jackets, sportswear, and travel apparel.

Summary

Congratulations on crafting your very first welt pocket! You’ve taken a significant step in your sewing journey, so don’t be discouraged by any initial challenges. As you continue to hone your skills, welt pockets will become second nature. As you gain more experience, you’ll be able to adapt and customize welt pockets to suit a wide range of garments and styles. Don’t forget to share your sewing successes with friends and fellow enthusiasts, and always be open to learning and improving. Keep exploring new sewing projects, and don’t hesitate to return to this tutorial whenever you need a refresher. Happy sewing!

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