How To Sew a Pocket?

In this post, you’ll learn how to add your own pockets to your clothes. It’s like a secret upgrade to your garments, giving you a superpower to carry your essentials with you, like your favorite snacks, a small notebook, or even some spare change. When you sew a pocket, you have the freedom to choose the size, location, and fabric of your choice. It’s also a super useful skill that can help you mend and customize your outfits. By the end of this post, you’ll be able to add pockets to your clothes like a pro and make your wardrobe even more awesome!

Understanding Pocket Types

There are tons of pocket types that you can create. The “patch pockets” are the simplest pockets to sew. They are stitched onto the surface of the garment, often with a topstitched border for added style. Patch pockets are commonly found on casual wear, like T-shirts and jeans.

Then, there are “in-seam pockets” that are hidden within the seams of your garment. They’re frequently found in skirts and dresses. And yes, the famous “welt pockets!” They are often seen on tailored garments like blazers and trousers. They have a flap or welt that conceals the pocket opening.

There are also “slant pockets.” These pockets have a diagonal or slanted opening and are commonly found on pants and skirts.

Collect the Supplies

Here’s what you’ll need:

1. Fabric

• You’ll need fabric for both your garment and the pocket itself. For small to medium-sized patch pockets, you can usually get away with a piece of fabric that’s roughly the size of the finished pocket plus a little extra for seam allowances and any desired topstitching. For larger patch pockets, you may need a bit more fabric.

• In-seam pockets are integrated into the side seams of your garment, so you’ll need enough fabric for the pocket bags and the garment itself. The pocket bags are usually smaller than the pocket opening, so consider the size of the opening when calculating the fabric needed.

• Welt pockets require extra fabric for the welt, pocket bag, and any additional layers like interfacing. Ensure that you have enough fabric to accommodate the size of the pocket opening and the welt itself.

• Slant pockets are similar to in-seam pockets in that they are integrated into the garment’s design. Make sure you have enough fabric for both the pocket bags and the garment pieces.

2. Thread

3. Needles

4. Scissors

5. Pins

6. Sewing Machine

7. Iron

8. A Tape Measure and Fabric Markers

9. Interfacing (if needed)

10. Pattern (if using)

Steps To Sew a Pocket

1. Patch Pockets

If you’ve decided on patch pockets for your sewing project, you’re in for a relatively straightforward process. Here are the step-by-step instructions for sewing patch pockets onto your garment:

• Choose your fabric and cut a piece for your pocket. Generally, a square or rectangular shape works well.

• Fold over the edges of the pocket piece to create a hem. Typically, you fold over about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of fabric along the top edge of the pocket. Use pins to secure the folded hem in place.

• Sew a straight stitch along the folded edge of the hem, about 1/8 inch from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches. Trim any loose threads.

• Determine where you want to attach the pocket on your project (garment, bag, etc.). Use a measuring tape to ensure it’s positioned evenly and at the desired height.

• Use pins to secure the pocket to the fabric, making sure it’s centered and level. Pin around the sides and bottom of the pocket.

• Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket using a straight stitch. You can sew close to the edge for a clean, modern look or add decorative stitching or topstitching for a more stylish touch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching to secure the pocket.

• If you want to reinforce the pocket for extra durability, you can sew another line of stitching along the top edge of the pocket.

• Remove any pins and trim any loose threads. If you used interfacing for added stability, trim any excess fabric from the corners.

There you have it! You’ve successfully sewn patch pockets onto your garment!

2. In-Seam Pockets

In-seam pockets are a great choice for adding pockets without disrupting the clean lines of your garment. Let’s walk through the steps to sew in-seam pockets:

• Cut out the fabric pieces for your garment as you normally would. This includes the front and back pieces.

• Cut two pocket pieces from your pocket fabric. These should be rectangles, and the size depends on how large you want your pockets to be. A common size is around 7-8 inches wide and 8-9 inches tall.

• Fold and press one long edge of each pocket piece by about 1/2 inch to the wrong side.

• With your main garment pieces right side up, lay the pocket pieces on top. Position them where you want the pockets to be and align the folded edges with the side seam of your garment.

• Pin the pocket pieces to the garment, making sure they are securely attached and won’t shift while sewing.

• Using your sewing machine, sew along the sides and bottom of each pocket piece, leaving the folded edge open. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches.

• Fold the garment with the right sides together, aligning the pocket pieces. Pin the side seams of the garment and the pocket pieces together, making sure to match the pocket pieces’ edges with the garment’s edges.

• Sew along the side seams of the garment and pocket pieces in one continuous seam, starting from the top and sewing all the way down. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance, and backstitch at the top and bottom to secure the stitches.

• If desired, you can add a row of topstitching along the top edge of the pockets to help them lay flat.

• Continue with the rest of your garment construction, and your in-seam pockets will be integrated into the design.

You’ve now successfully sewn in-seam pockets to your garment!

3. Welt Pockets

Sewing welt pockets can be a bit challenging, but with careful attention to detail, you can create beautiful welt pockets on your garments. Let’s go through the step-by-step process of sewing welt pockets:

• Cut the fabric pieces for your garment and the welt pocket. Make sure to transfer any pattern markings accurately.

• Mark the welt pocket opening on your fabric piece. This is typically a rectangle shape where you want your pocket to be. Cut along the marked lines.

• Cut a strip of fabric for the welt pocket. This strip should be the desired length of your welt pocket plus seam allowances. Fold the welt strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and press.

• Place the folded welt strip on the wrong side of the pocket opening, aligning the raw edges of the welt strip with the cut edges of the opening. Stitch the welt strip in place, following the marked lines of the pocket opening. Trim any excess fabric from the welt strip.

• Cut a pocket bag piece from your lining fabric, matching the size and shape of the pocket opening. Place the pocket bag right sides together with your main fabric, aligning the top edges. Stitch along the top edge, securing the pocket bag to the main fabric.

• Push the pocket bag through the pocket opening to the wrong side of the fabric, revealing the folded welt strip. Press the welt strip to create a crisp welt.

• With the pocket bag now on the wrong side of the fabric, stitch along the sides and bottom of the pocket bag, attaching it to the main fabric. Be sure not to catch the welt in your stitches.

• Trim any excess fabric from the pocket bag and welt strip. Fold the pocket bag back to the right side of the fabric and press it flat with an iron. You can topstitch around the edges for added durability.

You’ve now successfully sewn welt pockets!

4. Slant Pockets

Let’s walk you through the step-by-step process of sewing slant pockets:

• Determine where you want your slant pockets to be placed on your garment. Common locations are on the front of pants or skirts.

• Use a measuring tape and a fabric marker to mark the top and bottom edges of the pocket opening. The top edge should be higher than the bottom edge to create a slant. Ensure the markings are symmetrical on both sides.

• Use your scissors to carefully cut along the marked lines. These openings will be the pocket entrances.

• Cut two pieces of fabric for the pocket bags. These should be rectangular, and their width should be larger than the pocket opening width. The length can vary depending on how deep you want your pockets. Fold each pocket bag piece in half, right sides together, and sew along the bottom edge.

• Place one folded pocket bag piece inside the pocket opening, aligning the top edges. Pin the sides of the pocket bag to the garment, making sure it’s hidden inside. Sew along the sides of the pocket bag, close to the edges of the pocket opening. Repeat for the other side.

• Trim any excess fabric from the pocket bags. Fold the top edge of the pocket opening toward the inside of the garment and press it with an iron. Sew a topstitch along the top edge of the pocket opening to secure it in place.

• If you’re adding slant pockets to pants or a skirt, continue with your garment construction, sewing the side seams. Make sure to keep the pockets out of the way while sewing the seams.

That’s it! You’ve successfully sewn slant pockets onto your garment!

For guidance on sewing a pocket, don’t miss this instructional video:

Adding Buttons or Zippers to Pockets

Adding buttons or zippers to pockets is a common sewing project. Buttons or zippers are added to pockets for practical purposes like securing valuable items and protecting contents from external elements. Here’s a step-by-step guide for adding both buttons and zippers to pockets:

All you’ll need is your pocket fabric (already sewn onto your garment) and some buttons or a zipper to get started.

1. Adding Buttons to Pockets

• Determine the desired location for the button on the pocket and mark the position with a tailor’s chalk.

• Use the buttonhole stitch on your sewing machine to create the buttonhole. Position the button where you marked the buttonhole. Sew the button securely in place using a strong, matching thread.

2. Adding a Zipper to Pockets

• Decide where you want to place the zipper on the pocket. Mark the top and bottom edges of the zipper placement with a tailor’s chalk.

• Open up the seam where you want to insert the zipper. If there isn’t an existing seam, you may need to create one by folding the fabric under and sewing it down.

• Place the zipper face down on the right side of the fabric, aligning it with the chalk marks.

• Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine. Sew along the edge of the zipper tape, close to the teeth. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitching.

• Fold the fabric over the zipper and press it flat. Stitch the fabric down on the other side of the zipper, enclosing it.

Summary

Sewing a pocket is a valuable skill that can enhance the functionality of your clothing. Remember to choose the right fabric and pocket style for your project, measure and mark your placement carefully, and sew with utmost care to ensure a secure and functional pocket. Whether you’re adding a pocket to a garment or creating a brand new bag, sewing pockets is an essential ability that every sewist should learn.

So, have fun with your sewing projects, experiment with different pocket designs, and enjoy the convenience and style that pockets can bring to your creations. The more you practice, the more confident you’ll become in sewing pockets, and you’ll be able to add this practical feature to a wide range of items, making them even more useful and stylish. Happy sewing!

Frequently Asked Questions

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