How To Sew a Corset?

Corsets used to be a staple costume worn by ladies in the late 16th century. In the modern era, corsets can be worn as lingerie, over clothing, for waist training, for fashion or style statement, or even as a fun complement to an outfit. A corset is the best way to get the ideal hourglass-shaped body form. This article will walk you through the entire process of making a simple corset. If you don’t want to use store-bought or online patterns, I’ve also covered corset pattern making in detail.

Keep in mind that creating a corset can be a time-consuming and challenging endeavor, but there are ways to make the process simple enough that a beginner can complete the job if they have some sewing skills. So let’s begin straight away!

Types of Corsets

Many women depend on corsets, and many now consider them to be a necessary accessory. A corset can help you maintain a more upright posture and lessen pain in the area around your waist if you wear one every day. It is crucial to comprehend the different types of corsets if you ever consider learning how to sew a corset. You can choose from the following varieties of corsets:

1. Overbust Corset: When you wear an overbust corset, it provides support, shaping, and coverage to your chest, making you feel elegant and confident. They are often used to create an hourglass figure and are popular for formal occasions or as outerwear.

2. Underbust Corset: If you choose an underbust corset, you’ll find that it starts below your bust and focuses on shaping your waist, giving you the option to wear it discreetly under your clothing or as a stylish fashion statement.

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3. Waist Training Corset: A waist training corset is ideal if you’re looking to gradually reduce your waist size. When you wear one, it works on reshaping your waist with its sturdy materials and strong boning. Remember to use it with caution and guidance to ensure the best results.

4. Fashion Corset: When you opt for a fashion corset, you prioritize style and aesthetics. These corsets may not have as much constriction, making them perfect for wearing over your clothing as a trendy fashion statement or part of a costume.

5. Bridal Corset: If you’re a bride-to-be, a bridal corset is designed with elegance and romance in mind. It can be an overbust or underbust design, featuring lace, embroidery, and intricate details to make you look stunning on your special day.

Best Fabric for making Corsets

Check out the fabrics listed below that are suitable for making your very own corset:

1. Satin: When you want to make a corset that looks elegant and has a smooth, shiny surface, you might choose satin. Satin has a luxurious feel and a glossy appearance. It’s a popular choice for corsets when you want a more refined and sophisticated look.

2. Brocade: If you’re aiming for a corset with intricate patterns and a touch of luxury, brocade is your go-to fabric. This material features raised designs woven into the fabric, making it perfect for creating visually appealing and decorative corsets for special occasions.

3. Silk: When you’re looking for comfort and a touch of opulence, silk is an excellent option. Silk is known for its softness and smooth texture, making it a comfortable choice for corsets, especially those designed for special events or intimate occasions.

4. Cotton Coutil: If you prioritize durability and structure, you’d want to use cotton coutil. This tightly woven cotton fabric is specifically designed for corsetry. It provides excellent support and shaping, making it an ideal choice when you want your corset to effectively mold your body.

5. Leather: Leather is a bold and edgy choice for corsets. When you use leather, you create a corset that exudes a strong, confident look. Leather corsets are often associated with alternative or fetish fashion, and they can provide a unique and powerful aesthetic.

6. Mesh: For comfort and breathability, mesh fabrics can be used. Mesh is a light-weight, stretchy material that allows air to circulate, making it a comfortable choice for corsets when you want to wear them for longer periods without feeling too constricted.

7. Velvet: Velvet is a luxurious and soft fabric known for its plush texture and rich appearance. When you choose velvet for a corset, you’re opting for a material that feels exceptionally smooth and comfortable against your skin. Velvet corsets are often used for special occasions and can add a touch of elegance and sensuality to your outfit. They are also favored for their ability to capture and reflect light, creating a beautiful shimmer and depth in the fabric.

How to make your own Corset Pattern?

If you’re creating your own pattern for sewing a corset, follow these steps to take accurate measurements:

1. Gather a flexible measuring tape, a mirror or a friend to assist you, and a notepad and pen to record measurements.

2. Wear well-fitting undergarments you plan to wear with the corset.

3. Take the following measurements:

• Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust while keeping the tape snug but not tight.
• Underbust: Measure around your ribcage, just beneath your bust.
• Waist: Measure around the smallest part of your waist. It’s usually located above your navel and below your ribcage.
• High Hip: Measure around your hip bone, just below your waist measurement.
• Low Hip: Measure around the fullest part of your hips and buttocks.
• Torso Length: Measure from your underbust to your desired corset length, typically the hip or slightly below the hip.
• Back Length: Measure from the base of your neck (where the spine meets your shoulders) to your desired corset length.
• Front Length: Measure from the top of your bust to your desired corset length.

4. Keep the tape snug but not too tight to allow for breathing and movement.

5. Write down your measurements and label them clearly.

6. When sewing your corset, add seam allowances to these measurements to account for fabric and adjustments. Typically, a 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) seam allowance is added to each measurement.

These measurements will provide you with the basic dimensions for your corset pattern. Now, here’s a basic guide on how to make your own corset pattern:

Materials needed:

• A large piece of paper or poster board.
• A ruler or straight edge.
• Pencil and eraser.
• Your recorded measurements.

Steps:

• Determine the style and design of your corset, whether it’s overbust or underbust, longline or short, and any additional features like a busk or lacing.

• On your paper, draw a vertical line representing the center of your corset. This line should be as long as your desired corset length (from your underbust to your desired point on your hips).

• Divide your corset into panels. A common choice is to have 6 to 12 panels per side, but this can vary depending on the style. Each panel should be symmetrical, so you only need to create half of the pattern.

• For each panel, measure and mark the following distances from the centerline, following your measurements:

     – Half of your bust measurement for the bust point.

     – Half of your underbust measurement for the underbust point.

     – Half of your waist measurement for the waist point.

     – Half of your high hip measurement for the high hip point.

     – Half of your low hip measurement for the low hip point.

• Use your ruler to draw smooth curves connecting these points for each panel. These curves should follow the body’s natural contours.

• Around each panel, add seam allowances, typically 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) on all sides. This will be your cutting line for the fabric.

• Once you’ve created one-half of the corset pattern, duplicate it for the other side to ensure symmetry. Cut out both pattern pieces.

• Depending on your corset design, you may need to create pattern pieces for the lining, interfacing, and other details like busk placement, lacing channels, and boning channels.

• Transfer the final pattern to your chosen corset fabric, ensuring the straight grain of the fabric aligns with the centerline of your pattern.

• Follow your sewing pattern instructions and sew the corset pieces together, adding any necessary boning, busk, or lacing as specified in your chosen design.

Steps To Sew a Corset

A corset is a difficult, time-consuming undertaking that calls for a high level of skill and accuracy. The following are comprehensive step-by-step directions that I believe will assist you to sew your corset:

Supplies Needed:

• Sewing Machine: Use a standard sewing machine.
• Fabric: Choose a sturdy, non-stretch fabric, such as coutil, denim, or twill, or even leather if you desire a unique look for the corset body. For the lining, use a light-weight and comfortable fabric, like cotton, for comfort against the skin.
• Boning: Use steel or plastic boning for structure.
• Lacing: A cord or ribbon for lacing.
• Grommets: To create lacing holes.
• Thread: Strong, matching thread.
• Pins and Needles: High-quality, sharp pins and needles.
• Scissors: Use good quality fabric scissors.
• Pattern: You can buy a corset pattern or make your own as shown above.

Step 1: Prepare the Pattern

Start by choosing a corset pattern that suits your style and desired fit. You can find corset patterns at fabric stores, online, or in sewing pattern books. Ensure that the pattern comes in your size, or you may need to make adjustments for a custom fit. You may need a tracing paper if you plan to modify the existing pattern. You may also opt to create your own pattern as explained above.

Use sharp scissors to cut out the pattern pieces along the lines for your selected size. Transfer any markings or notches from the pattern onto your fabric. These marks are essential for matching and aligning the fabric pieces during the sewing process.

If you need to make adjustments to the pattern to achieve a customized fit, this is the stage to do it. Common modifications include lengthening or shortening the pattern, adjusting the waistline, or accommodating specific body proportions. Use your ruler and pattern paper to make these alterations.

To avoid confusion during the sewing process, label each pattern piece with its corresponding part of the corset (e.g., front, back, side, etc.). You can also mark the grainline direction to ensure your fabric is cut correctly.

Step 2: Cut the Fabric

Lay your pattern pieces onto the fabric while paying attention to any directional patterns on the fabric, like stripes or motifs, to ensure they are aligned correctly.

Use sharp sewing pins to secure the pattern pieces to the fabric. Using sharp fabric scissors, carefully cut along the edges of the pattern pieces. As you cut each fabric piece, transfer any markings, notches, or other pattern details onto the fabric with tailor’s chalk or fabric markers.

Repeat the cutting process for the lining fabric if you have separate lining pieces. Ensure that the lining pieces match the corresponding fashion fabric pieces.

Step 3: Baste the Layers

Basting is a temporary stitching technique that holds the layers of fabric together to prepare them for permanent sewing. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a long stitch length, typically around 4-6 mm. You can also baste by hand with a running stitch using a contrasting thread if you prefer.

Lay the fashion fabric and lining fabric pieces on a fabric cutting table, if you have one, ensuring that the right sides are facing each other. Align the edges of the fabric pieces precisely.

Use sewing pins to secure the layers together along the seam lines, typically within the seam allowance (about 1/2 inch or 1.27 cm from the edge of the fabric). Make sure the pins are inserted perpendicular to the seam to make them easy to remove.

Begin basting by stitching along the seam lines, keeping the seam allowance consistent. If using a sewing machine, baste within the seam allowance, and if you’re hand-basting, use a long running stitch.

At the beginning and end of the basting, backstitch a few stitches or tie a knot to secure the basting thread. This will prevent the basting from unraveling.

If your corset design includes boning channels or a busk, be sure to leave these sections open without basting. These areas will be stitched later to accommodate the boning and busk.

Carefully remove the sewing pins and trim any excess thread and ensure that the layers are secure but not overly tight. You want to maintain the accurate alignment without distorting the fabric.

Step 4: Sew the Panels

Sewing the panels together is a fundamental step in constructing a corset. These panels are the individual pieces that make up the front and back of the corset. Properly stitching them together creates the shape and structure of the corset.

Lay out the panels according to your corset pattern. Typically, you will have two or more front panels and two or more back panels, depending on the design. Place the right sides of the fabric panels together. The right side is the side of the fabric that will be visible on the outside of the corset.

Align the seams along the edges where the panels should be joined. Ensure that any notches or markings on the fabric match up, as these indicate where the seams should meet.

Use straight pins to secure the panels together. Pin along the seam lines within the seam allowance (usually 1/2 inch or 1.27 cm from the edge) to prevent fabric shifting during sewing.

Prepare your sewing machine with a straight stitch and thread that matches the fabric. You can use a standard straight stitch or a stitch recommended by your pattern instructions.

Starting at the top or bottom of the panels (as indicated by your pattern), stitch along the seam line within the seam allowance. Use a backstitch or lockstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to secure the threads.

After sewing each seam, carefully press it open using an iron set to an appropriate heat level for your fabric. This step helps create a smooth and polished finish.

Continue sewing and pressing the seams for all the panel pairs. After sewing all the panels, check that the corset is taking shape as intended, and the fit appears accurate. Make any necessary adjustments before proceeding.

Step 5: Press the Seams

Pressing open the seams is an important step in corset-making that ensures the seams are flat and the fabric lies smoothly. Lay out your corset with the sewn seams facing up.

Gently open the seam by unfolding the fabric. The seam allowance should be on either side of the seam, with the seam itself in the center. Hold the iron lightly on top of the seam, allowing the steam to penetrate the fabric. This helps relax the fabric fibers and makes pressing more effective.

With the iron held perpendicular to the seam, apply gentle pressure and move the iron smoothly along the entire length of the seam. Continue to open and press each seam, ensuring that the seam allowances lay flat and the seam itself is smooth.

Step 6: Insert Boning

Boning provides structure and support to a corset, helping it maintain its shape and contour to the body. The boning channels are created during the construction of the corset, and now it’s time to insert the boning material.

Ensure that you have already cut your boning to the appropriate lengths, following your corset pattern or design. Boning can be made of steel or plastic, and it should match the length of the channels on your corset.

Carefully identify the boning channels that were created during the construction of your corset. These channels are typically sewn into the seams or along specific lines within the fabric.

Decide whether you want to start inserting boning from the top or bottom of your corset. Gently slide the boning into the channels. Take care not to bend or kink the boning, as this can affect the fit and comfort of the corset. If the boning doesn’t easily slide in, you may need to trim or round the edges for a smoother fit.

The ends of the boning should be secured within the corset to prevent them from shifting or poking through the fabric. Options for securing the boning ends include sewing a small fabric cap, using pre-made boning caps, or securely stitching the channel closed.

After inserting all the boning, put on the corset and check for fit and comfort. If any excess boning protrudes from the top or bottom of the corset, carefully trim it to the desired length.

If you started inserting boning from one end, secure the ends of the channels at the other end to ensure the boning remains in place. This can be done through stitching or using boning caps.

Step 7: Stitch Boning Channels

Stitching the top and bottom edges of the boning channels is a critical step to secure the boning in place, prevent it from shifting, and maintain the structure of your corset. Set up your sewing machine with a straight stitch.

Identify the boning channels on your corset where you inserted the boning. These channels may have been created during the construction of the corset, often within the seams. Begin stitching at one end of the boning channel, typically either the top or bottom, as indicated by your pattern or design.

Position your sewing machine needle as close to the boning as possible without piercing it. This ensures that the boning is securely held in place and prevents it from moving within the channel. Start with a backstitch or lockstitch at the beginning of the channel to secure the thread.

Carefully stitch along the entire length of the channel, following the existing stitching line or any guidelines indicated by your pattern. Stitch parallel to the boning, maintaining a consistent seam allowance. When you reach the end of the channel, backstitch or lockstitch again to secure the thread.

Continue stitching all boning channels on your corset, ensuring that each channel is securely stitched along the top and bottom edges. After stitching each channel, trim any excess thread, being careful not to cut into the fabric or boning.

Step 8: Create the Busk Channels

The busk is a set of metal closures used in the front of a corset. To attach the busk, you need to create channels or casings in the fabric to securely hold it in place.

Make sure you have the busk set, which typically consists of two busk halves – one with loops (the knob side) and one with pins (the stud side). Ensure they match the length of the busk channels you need to create.

Identify the front panels of your corset where you want to insert the busk. This is typically in the center front. Ensure that the panels are positioned accurately and evenly.

Use chalk or a fabric marker to mark the placement of the busk channels on the fabric. These marks should align with the holes or loops on the busk pieces.

The busk channels can be created by sewing two fabric strips onto the front panels. These strips should be wide enough to fit the busk halves and provide a secure casing. Pin or baste the strips to the front panels, ensuring they are aligned with your placement marks.

Use a sewing machine to stitch the casings in place. Sew as close to the edges of the strips as possible, and reinforce the top and bottom seams of each casing. This creates strong casings to hold the busk halves. Trim any excess fabric or threads to leave a neat and clean edge on the casings.

Now that the casings are ready, you can insert the busk. Start with the knob side. Slide the knob side of the busk into one of the casings, pushing it from the top to the bottom of the corset. Insert the stud side of the busk into the other casing on the opposite front panel. The stud side should fit into the loops on the knob side, creating a secure closure.

After attaching the busk, check the fit and alignment to ensure that it is even and provides a secure front closure for your corset. You can choose to finish the edges of the casings with a zigzag stitch or bias tape for added reinforcement and a polished appearance.

Step 9: Grommet Placement

Grommets are used in the back of a corset to create the lacing holes through which you’ll thread your laces. Ensure that you have the necessary materials for adding grommets, including the grommet kit, grommets, a hammer or mallet, a hole punch or awl, and the corset with the back panels ready.

On the back of your corset, measure and mark where you want to place the grommets. Start at the top and bottom edges and work your way toward the center, leaving a small gap in between for lacing.

Maintain even spacing between the grommets. This spacing will depend on your design and the size of the grommets, but it’s typically around 1-1.5 inches (2.5-3.8 cm) between grommets. Ensure that the grommets on one side of the corset align with those on the opposite side.

Using a hole punch or an awl, create holes at the marked positions. These holes should be slightly smaller than the grommets you plan to use. Ensure that the holes are clean and without frayed edges.

Place one half of a grommet into the hole from the outside of the corset, with the flat side of the grommet facing the fabric. The other half of the grommet should go inside the corset, with the rounded side of the grommet facing the fabric.

With the grommets in place, follow the instructions provided with your grommet kit to set them. This usually involves using a grommet setter tool and a hammer or mallet. Ensure that the grommets are securely fastened and that they are evenly and neatly set. Continue this process for all the grommets, working your way down the back of the corset.

Step 10: Lacing Holes

Lacing holes are an essential part of your corset as they provide a pathway for threading the laces, allowing you to adjust the fit. Make sure you have all the necessary materials, including an awl or hole punch, a cutting board or self-healing mat, a ruler, chalk or a fabric marker, and your corset.

Decide where you want to place the lacing holes on your corset. This is typically along the center back panels, and the holes should be evenly spaced to ensure balanced lacing.

Use a ruler, chalk, or a fabric marker to mark the positions where you intend to create the lacing holes. The spacing between the holes may vary depending on your design, but it’s typically about 1-1.5 inches (2.5-3.8 cm) between holes.

Lay your corset on a flat and sturdy surface, with a cutting board or self-healing mat underneath to protect the surface and prevent damage to the boning. Use an awl or hole punch to create small holes where you marked the lacing hole placement. These holes should be just big enough for your laces to comfortably pass through.

Ensure that the holes are evenly spaced and aligned on both sides of the back panels of your corset. This ensures that the lacing will be balanced. After creating the holes, inspect them to ensure they are clean and free from any frayed edges or obstructions that could snag the laces.

Thread your laces through the lacing holes to ensure that they fit smoothly and that there are no issues with threading. You should be able to lace up your corset without any snags or resistance. Double-check that the lacing holes are evenly spaced and aligned on both sides of the corset’s back panels to ensure a balanced and secure fit.

Step 11: Lace Up the Corset

Lacing up your corset is the final step in putting it on and shaping your body. It’s an essential part of achieving the desired fit. Prepare your chosen lacing material, which can be a cord, ribbon, or other suitable option. Make sure it’s long enough to easily thread through all the lacing holes.

Decide whether you want to start lacing from the top or bottom of your corset. It’s common to start at the top and work your way down, which is the side with the loops (typically the right side of the corset). From the inside of the corset, insert one end of the lacing through the top lacing hole on the right side (the side with the loops).

Cross the lacing over to the corresponding hole on the left side and thread it from the outside to the inside. This should create a “cross” at the top of your corset.

Continue to thread the lacing through each pair of lacing holes, moving downward one pair at a time. As you lace down the corset, ensure that the lacing stays relatively flat and doesn’t twist or tangle.

As you lace down, adjust the tension of the lacing. Pull the lacing tight enough to provide the desired fit and shaping but not so tight that it’s uncomfortable or damaging to the fabric. Pay attention to how the corset fits your body.

At each pair of lacing holes, you should create a cross with the lacing on the outside and a loop on the inside. These crosses help distribute the tension evenly, ensuring that the lacing is secure and that the corset fits comfortably.

When you reach the bottom of your corset, tie a secure knot to keep the lacing in place. You can tie a bow or knot, whichever you prefer. Make sure the knot is snug but not too tight, allowing for easy adjustments.

Trim any excess lacing, leaving a little extra for adjusting the tightness if needed. Be cautious not to cut it too short, as you may want to re-lace the corset in the future.

After lacing up your corset, test the fit and comfort. Ensure that it provides the desired shape and support. You should be able to breathe comfortably and maintain good posture.

Step 12: Finish the Top and Bottom Edges

Finishing the top and bottom edges of your corset is an important step to create a clean, polished appearance. Decide on the type of finish you want for the top and bottom edges. There are several options, including bias binding, fabric facing, lace edging, and more. Your choice should complement the overall design of your corset.

Cut strips of your chosen finishing material to match the length of the top and bottom edges of your corset. Ensure the strips are wide enough to cover the raw edges and seam allowances.

Secure the finishing material to the top or bottom edge of the corset with pins or basting stitches. The raw edge of the corset fabric should be enclosed within the finishing material. Be sure that the right side of the finishing material faces the right side of the corset.

Use a sewing machine to stitch the finishing material to the corset fabric. Sew as close to the edge of the finishing material as possible to create a neat, even seam. Repeat this process for both the top and bottom edges of the corset. Trim any excess finishing material and threads to create a clean, finished edge that aligns with the corset’s shape.

If you’re using a fabric facing or bias binding, you can fold the strip over the raw edge and stitch it in place. This adds extra reinforcement and a decorative element to the edge. If you’ve chosen lace edging, sew the lace along the top or bottom edge for a delicate, feminine finish. Ensure that it’s securely attached and lies flat.

Step 13: Decorate (Optional)

Decorating your corset is an optional step that allows you to personalize and enhance its appearance, making it truly your own. Decide on the types of embellishments and decorations you want to add to your corset. Some common options include lace trim, ribbon, bows, lace appliques, beads, sequins, embroidery, fabric paint, or even hand-painted designs.

Depending on the type of decorations you’ve chosen, you may need to sew, glue, or iron them onto the corset.

• Sewing: If you’re using items like lace trim or fabric appliques, sew them onto the corset using a matching thread.

• Gluing: For items like beads or sequins, use fabric glue designed for this purpose. Fabric glue is also suitable for securing small ribbons, bows, or appliques.

• Ironing: If you’re using iron-on decorations, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for heat application. Be cautious not to overheat, as it may damage the corset fabric.

If your corset has boning channels, you can embellish them by sewing decorative ribbons or contrasting fabrics along the channels for an added decorative touch.

For a more intricate and personalized touch, consider hand embroidery. You can create intricate patterns, monograms, or floral designs. Use embroidery floss and embroidery hoops for precision.

Add beads or sequins for a touch of sparkle. Hand-sew these embellishments onto the corset, ensuring they are securely attached. Attach ribbons or bows at strategic points for a charming and whimsical look. Secure them with neat stitches or fabric glue.

After attaching the decorations, trim any excess threads and ensure that all embellishments are securely attached and won’t unravel with wear. Put on the corset to see how it looks and fits with the added decorations. Make sure they don’t affect the comfort or functionality of the corset.

If you’re looking to explore a fantastic do-it-yourself video on crafting a corset through sewing, be sure to check this out:

Summary

To wrap it up, sewing a corset is a skill that is challenging for beginners. But, as you embark on this creative journey, you’ll get a chance to perfect your sewing techniques with practice, practice, and only practice! Whether it’s for historical reenactments, costume design, or personal expression, a well-made corset can be a remarkable addition to your sewing collection.

Additionally, it’s important to be aware that the corset tutorial in this post isn’t an authentic historical corset; instead, it’s a simplified, basic version. It lacks the intricate details that professional corset makers would typically include, but it’s ideal for special occasions, costume pieces, or as a foundation for an evening gown. Enjoy your sewing!

Frequently Asked Questions

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