HOW TO SEW A BODYSUIT

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How To Sew a Bodysuit?

Sewing a bodysuit is like making your very own cool, one-piece outfit that fits just right. It’s perfect for dance, gymnastics, or just looking stylish and comfy. Think of a bodysuit as a fancy costume that you can create yourself; with just some fabric and stitches, you can make something awesome. And the best part is, you get to design it however you want! So, let’s put on our creative hats and begin sewing our own bodysuit. It’s going to be so much fun!

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    Choosing Thread and Needles

    When sewing a bodysuit, it’s important to select the right thread and needles, so that you do not jeopardize your project. I recommend keeping these points in mind:

    1. Thread

    • Use a high-quality polyester thread for general bodysuit sewing. It’s strong, durable, and has some stretch, which is essential for a garment that needs to move with the body.
    • Consider using a matching thread color to hide stitching lines or a contrasting color for decorative purposes.

    2. Needle

    • Choose a ballpoint or stretch needle, specifically designed for sewing stretchy fabrics like those used in bodysuits. These needles have rounded tips that slide between the fabric’s fibers rather than piercing them, reducing the risk of snags.
    • Use a needle size appropriate for the fabric weight. Thinner fabrics may require a smaller needle size, while heavier fabrics need larger needles.
    • Be sure to check whether your needle is sharp; a dull needle can damage the fabric.

    Selecting Fabric for Your Bodysuit

    Choosing the perfect fabric for your bodysuit is a big deal. Firstly, think about how much the fabric can stretch and go back to its original shape. Your bodysuit needs to fit comfortably, so pick a fabric with good elasticity. Fabrics like spandex, Lycra, or elastane mixed with cotton, polyester, or nylon are great because they can stretch and bounce back.

    The amount of stretch you should look for in a fabric depends on the style and fit you want for your bodysuit. In general, a fabric with around 5-10% spandex, Lycra, or elastane is a good starting point for most bodysuit designs. This level of stretch allows the fabric to comfortably conform to your body’s contours while providing ease of movement.

    However, if you’re creating a bodysuit that’s meant to be extremely form-fitting, you might want to opt for a fabric with a higher percentage of stretch, closer to 10%. This will ensure a snug fit and better shape retention. If your bodysuit is for athletic activities, such as dance or yoga, consider a fabric with a higher stretch percentage, around 8-10%. It should offer the flexibility needed for a wide range of movements. If your bodysuit is designed for maternity wear, you may want a fabric with more stretch, around 10%, to accommodate a growing belly and ensure comfort.

    Think about how thick and see-through the fabric is. If you want your bodysuit to be not see-through, go for fabrics like double knits or jersey knits because they provide good coverage. For sports or hot weather, choose fabrics that can wick away sweat. Performance blends or athletic knits can keep you dry.

    Also, if you have sensitive skin, choose fabrics that won’t irritate you, like cotton, bamboo, or organic blends. Lastly, check if the fabric’s color will stay the same after washing. Read the care instructions and reviews to make sure.

    Taking Accurate Body Measurements

    If this is your first time sewing a bodysuit, you may want to know how to take accurate body measurements. Grab a flexible measuring tape and a mirror. And yes, wear form-fitting clothes to ensure that the measurements are as precise as possible.

    Stand up straight with your back in a natural position and your shoulders relaxed. Take the following key measurements for your bodysuit: bust, waist, hips, torso length, inseam, and leg length. For the bust, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Measure your waist around the narrowest point, and for the hips, measure around the fullest part of your hips. The torso length is taken from the top of your shoulder down to your crotch, and the inseam is measured from the crotch to the ankle. The leg length should be measured from the hip to the desired length of the bodysuit, which may be mid-thigh, knee, or ankle, depending on your design.

    Write down the measurements in either inches or centimeters. Lastly, remember to adjust for any unique design features your bodysuit might have. Certain patterns may require additional measurements, such as neck circumference or armhole depth. Once you have collected and recorded the measurements, you can use them to create a well-fitting bodysuit.

    Gathering Materials

    To sew a bodysuit, you’ll need the following materials:

    1. Fabric: Choose a fabric suitable for a bodysuit, such as stretchy spandex, lycra, or jersey knit, depending on your design.

    2. Pattern: You can purchase a bodysuit sewing pattern or create your own by tracing an existing bodysuit with a tracing paper.

    3. Sewing Machine: A standard sewing machine with a stretch or ballpoint needle is ideal for working with stretch fabrics.

    4. Thread: Use a thread that matches the color of your fabric and is suitable for stretch fabrics.

    5. Scissors: Fabric scissors for cutting your fabric and pattern.

    6. Pins: These will help hold your fabric together while sewing.

    7. Elastic: You’ll need elastic for leg openings, neckline, and possibly along seams for reinforcement.

    8. Snap Closures or Hook-and-Eye Closures: These are used to create the crotch closure of the bodysuit.

    9. Measuring Tape: For taking measurements and ensuring a proper fit.

    10. Marking Tools: Chalk or fabric markers for marking the fabric and pattern.

    11. Iron and Ironing Board: To press seams and hems for a polished look.

    12. Optional Embellishments: If desired, you can add decorative elements like lace, appliques, or rhinestones.

    Steps To Sew a Bodysuit

    Sewing a bodysuit can seem a bit scary at first. But that’s okay as it’s completely normal to feel so. Don’t worry, I’m here to guide you through the process step by step, and I’ll offer tips and tricks along the way to make it easier for you.

    Step 1: Cutting Fabric Pieces

    First, you’ll need to lay out your fabric on a flat surface like a fabric cutting table. Pin your bodysuit pattern to the fabric, making sure to follow the pattern’s guidelines for the fabric’s stretch direction. Carefully cut out the front and back pieces, sleeves (if your bodysuit design includes them), and any other components like collars or cuffs.

    Tip: Use fabric weights or heavy objects to keep your pattern in place, and use fabric scissors to ensure clean cuts.

    Step 2: Sewing the Bodysuit Front and Back

    Sewing the bodysuit front and back is a critical step, as it forms the basic structure of your bodysuit.

    • Place the front and back bodysuit pieces right sides together. This means that the patterned or outer sides of the fabric should be facing each other. Align the edges of the shoulder seams, sides, underarms, and the crotch area.
    • Use pins or clips to secure the pieces in place. Start by pinning the shoulder seams together, and then work your way down the sides and underarms.
    • Select a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. A zigzag stitch is a good choice as it allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches. It’s ideal for sewing stretchy fabrics like spandex or lycra.
    • Begin sewing at the shoulder seams using a 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch seam allowance (as indicated in your pattern). Stitch slowly and carefully to maintain even seam allowances. When you reach the underarm and crotch areas, pivot the fabric by leaving the needle down, lifting the presser foot, and turning the fabric to sew around curves. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seams to secure them.
    • Repeat the same process for the back piece, sewing the shoulder, side, underarm, and crotch seams.

    Tip: When sewing stretch fabrics, it’s important to handle the fabric gently and avoid overstretching it while sewing. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle, as mentioned earlier, and always practice on a fabric scrap to adjust your machine settings for the best results.

    Step 3: Adding Sleeves (if applicable)

    Adding sleeves to your bodysuit can transform its look altogether.

    • Before you begin, ensure that you have the sleeves cut out according to your pattern. Sleeves typically have a front and back side, so make sure you can distinguish between them.
    • Examine your bodysuit front and back pieces to identify the armholes. You’ll need to mark the top center of the armhole on both the front and back pieces.
    • With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, pin the sleeves into the armholes. Line up the top center of the sleeve with the top center of the armhole. Make sure the sleeve’s curved edge matches the armhole’s curve.
    • Sleeves often need a bit of easing. This means that the sleeve fabric is slightly longer than the armhole. Use your fingers to gently distribute the excess fabric evenly, ensuring that it’s not bunched up in one place.
    • Pin the sleeves all around the armholes, starting from the top center and working your way out. This will help keep the sleeve in the right position while sewing.
    • Using the same stretch stitch you used for the side seams in Step 2, sew the sleeves to the armholes. Start at the top center and sew towards the underarm. Take it slow around the curves to ensure a smooth seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches.

    Tip: If your sleeve has a cuff or hem, sew that in place before sewing the sleeves to the bodysuit. This makes it easier to handle and finish the sleeve edges.

    • Repeat the same process for the other sleeve. Ensure that the placement and easing are consistent for both sleeves.

    Step 4: Sewing the Collar and Neckline

    To make your bodysuit look and feel great, it’s important to sew the collar and neckline neatly.

    • Ensure you have the collar and neckline pieces cut according to your pattern. Collars may come in various styles, such as stand-up collars, scoop necklines, or V-necks.
    • Identify the center of your bodysuit’s front and back pieces, as well as the center of your collar or neckline piece. Mark these points with pins.
    • Align the center point of your collar or neckline piece with the center of the bodysuit’s front piece. Pin or clip it in place, starting at the center and working your way out.
    • Use a straight stitch or the appropriate stitch recommended by your pattern to attach the collar or neckline. Start sewing from the center and move towards the edges. Take it slow, especially around curves, to ensure an even seam.
    • If your pattern includes a collar or neckline on the back of the bodysuit, follow the same steps for the back piece.

    Tip: If your collar or neckline has a facing, sew it to the main collar or neckline piece before attaching it to the bodysuit. Facings help finish the raw edges and add stability to the neckline.

    • Trim any excess fabric from the seam allowances if needed, especially around curves. This helps maintain a smooth neckline.
    • Understitching is an optional step that involves sewing the seam allowance to the facing or the inside of the collar or neckline. It helps the facing stay in place and prevents it from rolling outward. To understitch, sew a line of stitching close to the seam on the facing side.
    • Some designs benefit from topstitching around the collar or neckline. This adds a decorative touch and helps the collar or neckline lay flat.

    Step 5: Creating a Lining

    Creating a lining for your bodysuit can enhance its comfort, provide opacity if your main fabric is sheer, and give a polished look to the interior.

    • Cut out the lining pieces based on the pattern instructions. Lining fabric is often made from a light-weight, smooth material like cotton, satin, or mesh.
    • Align the lining pieces with the main bodysuit pieces. They should be of similar size and shape, and you’ll be sewing them together.
    • Pin or clip the lining pieces to the corresponding main bodysuit pieces, with right sides facing each other. This means that the patterned or outer sides of the lining should be touching the patterned or outer sides of the main fabric.
    • Sew around the edges of the lining and main fabric pieces, leaving an opening for turning. Use a 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch seam allowance as indicated by your pattern. Backstitch at the beginning and end, and ensure you sew carefully, especially around curves and corners.
    • Trim any excess fabric at the corners and curves and make small clips (not through the stitching) along curves. This helps the fabric lay flat when turned right side out.
    • Carefully turn the bodysuit right side out through the opening you left in the lining. Gently push out the corners and curves for a neat shape. A blunt-ended tool or your fingers can help with this.
    • To close the opening in the lining, you can hand-sew it shut using a slip stitch or a ladder stitch. Make sure the stitching is hidden and doesn’t show on the outside of the bodysuit.
    • The lining should now be securely attached to the main bodysuit. Make sure it lies flat and doesn’t bunch up inside.

    Tip: If you’re sewing a very sheer or delicate fabric, consider using French seams on the lining for an extra polished look. French seams encase the raw edges and prevent fraying.

    Step 6: Creating a Gusset for Comfort

    Creating a gusset in your bodysuit is an optional but highly beneficial step to enhance comfort and mobility.

    • Choose a fabric for your gusset that matches the main fabric of your bodysuit. Typically, gusset fabric should be a light-weight and stretchy material, like the main fabric itself.
    • Cut a rectangular or diamond-shaped piece from the gusset fabric. The size of the gusset depends on your pattern, but a common size is around 6-8 inches long and 4-6 inches wide. It’s better to start larger and trim it later if needed.
    • Examine your bodysuit front and back pieces to identify the crotch area. You should see a V-shaped seam where the front and back pieces meet. This is where the gusset will be added.
    • Align the gusset piece with the crotch area of the bodysuit, right sides together. Make sure the narrower end of the gusset aligns with the V-shaped seam. Pin the gusset in place.
    • Using a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, sew the gusset to the crotch area. Start sewing at the narrower end and work your way towards the wider end. This triangular or diamond shape reinforces the crotch area and allows for greater freedom of movement.
    • Trim any excess gusset fabric that extends beyond the seam allowance.
    • After sewing, press the gusset seams with an iron. This flattens the seams and sets the stitches.

    Tip: If you’re concerned about the gusset being visible from the outside, consider sewing it in a contrasting color to make it less noticeable. Alternatively, you can use fabric that matches your skin tone to make it blend in.

    Step 7: Adding Elastic

    Integrating elastic into your bodysuit is a must to guarantee a snug and luxurious fit.

    • Choose the appropriate elastic for your project. For leg openings and necklines, consider using a soft, stretchy, and comfortable elastic, often called “plush” or “lingerie” elastic. For seams that need reinforcement, like armholes or waistbands, a narrower elastic may be suitable.
    • Begin by measuring the areas where you plan to add elastic. For leg openings, necklines, or sleeve cuffs, measure the circumference of these areas. For other areas like seams, measure the length of the seam that requires elastic.
    • Cut the elastic to the measured length, but add a small overlap (about one inch) for joining the ends together.
    • On the wrong side of the fabric, pin the elastic evenly along the edge of the area where it will be attached. If you’re adding elastic to a seam, align it with the seam allowance, making sure the elastic is on the inside of the garment.
    • Using a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, sew the elastic to the fabric. Sew along the edge of the elastic, ensuring it’s stretched slightly as you go. You can use a zigzag stitch or a three-step zigzag for this purpose. This helps the elastic and fabric to move together.
    • When you reach the starting point, overlap the ends of the elastic by about an inch. Stitch them together securely with a few back-and-forth stitches. This ensures the elastic forms a continuous loop.

    Tip: To prevent the elastic from twisting while sewing, you can secure the starting end with a few stitches, then use a pin to keep the elastic straight as you sew around the garment. Remove the pin as you sew.

    • In some cases, you may choose to topstitch the fabric over the elastic to hold it in place securely and add a decorative element. This is common on waistbands, leg openings, and necklines.
    • If you’re adding elastic to multiple areas on your bodysuit, repeat the process for each section, following your pattern instructions.

    Step 8: Sewing the Leg Openings

    Sewing the leg openings of your bodysuit is an important step as it will determine the level of comfort when you wear your bodysuit.

    • Make sure that the leg openings of your bodysuit are appropriately cut and marked, according to your pattern. The leg openings should be clearly defined with markings.
    • On the wrong side of the fabric, pin the elastic evenly along the edge of the leg openings. The elastic should be placed right at the edge of the fabric, with the plush or soft side facing inward.
    • Using a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, sew the elastic to the leg openings. Start at the crotch area or a seam and sew all the way around, following the curve of the leg openings. Stretch the elastic slightly as you sew to ensure a snug fit.
    • When you reach the starting point, overlap the ends of the elastic by about an inch. Stitch them together securely with a few back-and-forth stitches. This creates a continuous loop of elastic.

    Tip: To prevent twisting, secure the starting end of the elastic with a few stitches, then use a pin to keep the elastic straight as you sew around the leg openings.

    • If your leg openings have excess fabric that extends beyond the elastic, you can trim it.
    • Repeat the same process for the other leg opening, ensuring that the application of elastic is consistent for both sides.

    Step 9: Adding Snap Closures or Zippers

    Adding snap closures or zippers to the crotch area of your bodysuit is essential for ease of wear.

    Snap Closures

    • Choose the type of snap closures you want to use. Common options include metal snaps, plastic snaps, or hook-and-eye closures.
    • Identify the crotch area of your bodysuit where you’ll add the snap closures. Measure and mark the locations for the snaps based on your pattern’s guidelines. Usually, you’ll need at least two sets of snaps, one near the front and one near the back of the crotch area.
    • Use a sewing machine attachment designed for snap installation. Make sure the snaps are aligned correctly and are tight, so they don’t pop open during wear.
    • If your pattern recommends it, you can add a fabric facing or binding to cover the edges of the crotch area where the snaps are attached.

    Zippers

    • If you’re using a zipper, choose the appropriate type and length based on your pattern. Invisible zippers are often a popular choice for bodysuits as they provide a discreet closure.
    • Identify the crotch area where you’ll add the zipper. Measure and mark the placement for the zipper based on your pattern’s guidelines.
    • Cut a straight edge at the crotch area, where the zipper will be attached. If your fabric is prone to fraying, consider using a fabric stabilizer or seam tape along the cut edge to prevent unraveling.
    • Place the zipper face down on one side of the crotch area, aligning the zipper teeth with the cut edge. Pin the zipper in place, making sure it’s centered and straight.
    • Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine to sew the zipper in place. Start at the bottom and work your way up one side. Then, repeat the process for the other side of the zipper.

    Step 10: Adding Finishing Touches and Hemming

    The final step involves adding finishing touches and hemming to finally make your bodysuit ready to be worn.

    • Carefully inspect your bodysuit for any loose threads and trim them, and use an iron to gently press the entire bodysuit, including the seams, hems, and any finished edges.
    • You may also need to hem various parts of the bodysuit, such as the sleeves, leg openings, and necklines. Determine the desired hem length and mark it with pins.
    • Fold the fabric at the marked hemline to the inside of the bodysuit. Pin the hem in place, ensuring it’s even all the way around.
    • You may choose to use different hemming techniques. Common options include: 1. A straight stitch along the fold of the fabric for a simple hem. 2. A zigzag stitch along the edge of the fabric to prevent fraying. 3. A twin needle stitch for a professional finish on stretch fabrics.
    • Using the selected hemming technique, sew along the folded edge of the fabric. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching to secure it.
    • You might also want to add embellishments or decorative elements to your bodysuit, such as lace, appliques, or rhinestones. Follow your pattern instructions or get creative to make your bodysuit unique.
    • Lastly, make sure you have the right undergarments to wear with your bodysuit, especially if your fabric is sheer or light-weight.

    And there you have it! You’ve successfully sewn your own bodysuit!

    To learn how to sew a bodysuit, watch this detailed video tutorial:

    Summary

    Sewing a bodysuit can be a super fun project, whether you’re making a stylish outfit or a comfy dancewear piece. First, you’ve got to pick the perfect fabric – something with a good amount of stretch like a knit fabric works like a charm.

    Now, find a bodysuit pattern that suits your style. Patterns are like the road map for your sewing journey, and they’ll guide you through each step. Cut your fabric according to the pattern and make sure to mark the front and back pieces. When you start sewing, use a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch to allow your bodysuit to stretch with you. Sewing around curves can be a bit fiddly, so take it slow and steady.

    As you finish sewing the pieces together, you’ll want to add some snaps or hooks to create the crotch closure – it’s like the finishing touch. And that’s it! You’ve just sewn your very own bodysuit. Experiment with different fabrics and patterns, and before you know it, you’ll have a collection of stylish, one-piece wonders to show off. Happy sewing and rock that bodysuit!

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Q. What is a bodysuit, and what are the benefits of sewing one?

    Ans. A bodysuit is a one-piece garment that covers the torso and typically fastens at the crotch. Sewing a bodysuit allows you to create a comfortable and versatile garment that stays in place.

    Q. What type of fabric is best for making a bodysuit?

    Ans. Choose a stretchy fabric, such as spandex, jersey, or knit fabric, as they provide the flexibility and comfort needed for a bodysuit.

    Q. Can I use a regular sewing machine for sewing a bodysuit, or do I need a serger/overlocker?

    Ans. While a serger/overlocker is ideal for sewing stretchy fabrics, you can also use a regular sewing machine with a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch to sew a bodysuit.

    Q. How do I select the right bodysuit pattern and size for my project?

    Ans. Choose a bodysuit pattern that matches your style and measurements. Measure yourself accurately and refer to the pattern’s size chart to select the right size.

    Q. What is the basic process for sewing a bodysuit?

    Ans. Cut out the pattern pieces, sew the bodysuit seams, attach closures (like snaps or hooks) at the crotch, finish the neckline and leg openings, and add any additional design elements or embellishments.

    Q. How do I ensure a secure and comfortable fit for a bodysuit?

    Ans. Pay attention to the fit by sewing with stretch stitches and using elastic at leg openings and neckline. Test the fit as you go to make necessary adjustments.

    Q. Are there specific techniques for finishing the edges of a bodysuit to prevent fraying and improve the appearance?

    Ans. To finish the edges, consider using a coverstitch machine if available. If not, a twin needle or zigzag stitch can provide a neat finish while maintaining stretch.

    Q. What are some tips for adding snaps or closures to the crotch of a bodysuit?

    Ans. To add snaps, ensure they’re evenly spaced and aligned. Reinforce the fabric with interfacing where you plan to attach the snaps to prevent tearing.




    If you are an advanced sewist, have a look at our best sewing machines, best sewing books and best sewing magazines posts and if you are looking to get a mechanicalheavy duty, quilting or industrial sewing machine, have a look at some of our great articles. If you are a beginner sewist, review our best sewing books for beginners, best sewing machines for beginners and best sewing machines under $200 to get started.

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    Happy Stitching.


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