Adjusting a Pattern to a Larger Size

Anyone who has ever worked with a pre-printed pattern from what was once referred to as the big four pattern distributors [McCall’s, Vogue, Simplicity, Butterick] is familiar with the ‘lengthen or shorten here’ markings that let you know where it is safe to make a pattern adjustment to accommodate for different body types.

What happens, however, when you have a pattern that is four sizes smaller than you actually need? Lengthening or shortening is simply not enough. Every seam needs to be adjusted in order to achieve a good fit.

This is what happened in my own sewing room when I received a pattern through a pattern give-away from Graca Resendes.

She was offering a pattern that would be a wonderful addition to my year-round wardrobe here in South Florida… a wrap skirt, tie blouse, pants in two lengths and a bra top.

I am still not altogether certain when or how I’ll use the bra top but there was never any doubt that the skirt, top and pants would be put to use over and over again.

When Vogue 7305 arrived, I discovered that the largest size on the pattern was literally two sizes smaller than I needed.

Not to worry. I knew what needed to be done and I had all the supplies necessary to do the job. What I didn’t have when the pattern arrived, however, was the time to do it properly.

Rather than get frustrated, I decided to give myself motivation to tackle this job sooner rather than later. I went through my fabric stash and selected the fabrics that I wanted to use to make the skirt and blouse [purple and gold African fabric for the skirt and a floral print fabric for the blouse].

I then sealed them in a large plastic bag along with the pattern and put them in my ‘project basket’… a large wicker basket where I stash all my planned sewing projects. When I have time to sew, I pull one of the bags from the basket and go to work.

The first thing I do is gather all the supplies and notions I need to complete the project. With everything at my fingertips, completing the project is as easy and effortless as possible.

Getting Started

Many times, when I am making adjustments to patterns, I simply pin the pattern to the fabric and use chalk to mark the new cutting lines directly onto the fabric. This is a wonderful time saver if you intend to use the modifications only once.

However, since this is a pattern that I know I will be using over and over again, I decided that it would be best for me to take the time to create new pattern pieces.

When I pulled this particular bag from the project basket, I gathered my tape measure, notebook, tracing paper rulers and marking pens. I removed the pattern from the bag, leaving the fabric where it was until I finished making my pattern adjustments.

My first step was to take my measurements and write them down in my notebook. Next, I measured the pattern pieces, starting with the skirt. According to the picture on the pattern envelope, the top of the skirt was below the waist, revealing the navel.

With this in mind, I knew that my first adjustment would be too add at least three inches to the top so the skirt would start at my waist rather than below my navel. Next, I needed to add to the side seams.

Making Adjustments to a Skirt Pattern to Fit a Larger Size

I rolled the tracing paper out onto the cutting table and then laid the pattern pieces on top, using adhesive tape to hold them in place.

I then measured one inch from the pattern edge at each of the side seams and drew my new cutting lines.

Next, I added the additional inch to the side seam allowances on the facing pieces. Finally, I added three inches to the top of the skirt pattern pieces, front and back.

The final adjustment I made to this particular skirt was to create petal edges on the open ends rather than the straight edges on the pattern.

Because I only wanted to use this effect this one time, I opted to use chalk to mark this segment of cutting line directly onto the fabric.

I used the leftover fabric to make a matching tank top using one of my tried and true patterns.

When worn together, the two pieces give the illusion of a dress, especially since the pattern in the fabric comes together so perfectly.

This was purely coincidental, but one for which I am very happy to take all the credit.

Adjusting a Blouse Pattern for a Larger Person

When it came to the blouse, a lot more planning was necessary. When adjusting a blouse or jacket pattern to accommodate a larger size, it is important to remember to make adjustments to the shoulder seams, armscyes, sleeves, and sometimes even the neck bands, and collars in addition to the obvious adjustments to the side seams and facings.

In this case, as with the skirt, it was necessary for me to also add a few inches in length as well because I did not want to expose my belly button. Since the front facing pattern is attached to the blouse front, this part of the task was simplified.

I toyed with the idea of lengthening the tie ends, but decided that adding four inches to the length of the blouse was enough.

I started by cutting the pattern at the point where it instructs you to ‘lengthen or shorten here’ and taped each end to a strip of tracing paper four inches long. This pattern also has two darts at the lower edge of the back.

It didn’t seem feasible for me to extend the darts from the top point of the dart on the pattern to the new lower edge, so I drew new darts, stating at the new lower edge and ending at approximately the same distance from the bottom edge as the original darts.

I then referred to the body measurements in my notebook. At that point, it was necessary to compare my measurements with the actual pattern pieces. Adding to the side seams was the least work intensive part of the entire task of making this blouse pattern large enough to fit me properly.

Once the side seam measurements were determined, it was then necessary to adjust the sleeve and the armscye measurements. In addition to the collar, this particular pattern also has a collar band as well.

Although I didn’t change the center fold line, the shoulder and armscye measurements were changed. Therefore, I adjusted both collar and collar band pieces.

Making changes to a blouse pattern requires far more precise measurements than a skirt. Normally, my advice is measure twice and cut once. In the case of a blouse or jacket, my recommendation is measure at least three or four times before pinning your pattern to the fabric and cutting.

One inaccurate measurement could very easily result in disaster and wasted time, energy and fabric. Initially I made a major mistake with this blouse. I added to the seam allowances on the sides, shoulder seams and armsceyes and the collar band and collar as well.

It wasn’t until I was actually making a muslin that I realized that the altered pattern had been cut incorrectly. The back and front went together perfectly. However, when I attempted to attach the collar band and collar, I discovered that my new pattern pieces were about two inches too long.

Although the neckline had changed, it hadn’t changed as much as I had estimated. I found myself cutting a new collar and collar band. Since I had limited fabric with which to work, this could have been a total catastrophe had I not made a muslin first.

Never ever cut your fabric until you are absolutely certain that your finished garment will fit the way you want it to. If you are unsure about the fit, take the time to first make it with muslin or very inexpensive fabric before running the risk of ruining your good fashion fabric.

If your muslin is a perfect fit, you know it is safe to go ahead and make your garment with the fabric of choice. If, however, your practice piece is not a good fit, make your adjustments to the muslin and then transfer those adjustments to your pattern before touching your fashion fabric.

While this process takes a lot more time, the investment of time and energy are well worth it. There is nothing worse than making something with a favorite piece of fabric only to discover that it is a poor fit.

While I really like the roll up sleeve option on this pattern, I simply did not have enough of my fabric of choice to add the sleeves and cuffs. Rather than add sleeves to this particular blouse, I had the option of used some of the extra fabric to make bias tape strips or simply turn the edges under and topstitch.

Having the roll up sleeves would have given me the freedom to wear this blouse year-round. Here in South Florida, a blouse with long sleeves can really be extremely uncomfortable most of the year – that is until you enter a restaurant or some other building where it seems as though the thermostat is programmed to operate at its coldest setting.

This is why most women in this part of the country carry a shawl, stole, sweater or jacket even on the hottest of days. Had there been enough fabric to add sleeves to this blouse, I probably would have done so, but that would also have meant limiting the times when I would actually wear it.

During the spring and summer months, a blouse with anything more than a short sleeve can be extremely uncomfortable here in South Florida.

While it may not be ideal for an office building, going to the movies or dining inside some restaurants, the sleeveless blouse I ended up with is perfect for an al fresco dinner or lunch at any of the countless outdoor restaurants along the waterfront, for running errands and for getting together with friends for an afternoon or evening of just plain old fun.

What about the Other Pieces?

Which brings me to the pants in this pattern envelope. When it comes to pants, getting the right fit is almost always a challenge. Anyone who sews has probably already run into more than their fair share of pants patterns that do not fit right.

Once you find a pants pattern that flatters your body, you usually stick to that one pattern and resist trying out others. I have made countless pairs of casual and d dress slacks and pants with an elastic waist, but use only two patterns for dress slacks, one for pants with a flat front and elastic back, one for a pants with full elastic waist and one for knit or athletic pants.

Unless you have taken a pattern drafting class, my recommendation is to leave all attempts to adjust a pants pattern to fit a substantially larger size alone.

It has been more than 20 years since I took Sandra Betzina’s pants fitting class and I’m not ashamed to admit that I forgot more than I can remember at this point in time. Therefore, I decided to use this pattern to make pants and shorts for my granddaughter who is much smaller than I am.

As for the bra… I am seriously considering making the bra and wearing it beneath a sheer top that I have yet to make. When it do, it will require adjustments in the sides, back and cup as well as the shoulder straps.

I also have the option of adding a few tiers of fabric to the bottom edge, making it a fancy top that ties in the back rather than a skimpy bra top. Of course, I also have the option of making the bra top as it is for my granddaughter.

Conclusion

Regardless of what I ultimately do with these two pieces, I assure you that each of the four pieces in this pattern will be used more than once. Now that the most important pieces have been adjusted to fit me, I am sure to be making a lot more wrap skirts and tie blouses.

Although I am certain to leave the pattern for the pants and shorts as they are, my granddaughter will certainly appreciate the additions to her wardrobe. And as for the bra… well I’m sure it will be a wonderful addition to my wardrobe… whatever form it finally takes.